5 Axis install guide:
Tools needed:
1.Safety glasses
2.Jack and jack stands (I used 2)
3.Flat tip screw driver
4.Phillips screw driver (P3)
5.Drill and drill bit (5/32)
6.Pliers (needle nose)
7.Common sense and patience
8. 3 2-3 friends to help you hold things

Extras:
I used some extra “L” brackets. In the original instructions they weren’t mentioned but I will explain as I go along.

When your deliver arrives:
Anyone can be quite excited when the Fedex truck pulls up on your driveway but don’t forget to inspect your kit. The box it comes in is very strong if you see any damages to the box, then open and inspect the contents. If the product is damage then refuse shipment and call your Andy’s Auto sport rep. Do not get upset, all matters will be resolved.

Storing/Prepping:
When I received my kit I unpacked it and let it rest on the floor. The reason being is to let the kit snap back into shape. Even though the kit is made of urethane any prolong deformations can be permanent.

Do not let the primer or paint cure without support. The reason is if the paint cure and the front valance has a slight twist, when you straighten it you can crack the paint.

Before I took my kit to the body shop I wet sanded everything with 400 grit sand paper. I did this just to get some small nicks out and to give the primer a good key. Also when you sand make sure you go in one direction.

I told the painter to over spray on the inside. Some people just paint to the edge and call it a day. If the paint is going to chip, it will start at the edge.

Final installation:
Make sure the taping area is free of dirt, grease and wax. The dry fitting took me 2-3 hours. Final install should take half that. Make sure you take the time to dry fit and prepare.

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Installing a steering wheel is one of the three striking parts that can make your interior stand out (others being the seats and shifter knob). It’s one of the two parts people see as soon as you open your driver’s door (the other being the seat). This install will show you how to install the Hub adapter and wheel from Grant Products. Know for mostly their steering wheel line, Grant Products offer more parts than just steering wheels and their adapters, such as shift knobs, seatbelt styling pads, and seat covers. However, this article just covers the steering wheel and adapter.

The first thing to do is determine which steering wheel and adapter will work on your car. Andy’s Auto Sport can help you with that by selecting your car year, make, and model from their pull-down menus or by selecting the make and finding the picture of your car. See, this is easy from the start!

For this install, we are working on my 1990 Nissan 240SX Hatchback that I will be using in the Drift Nirvana series New Jersey round of the Xtreme Drift Circuit, so I needed Grant part number 3560. It comes with the adapter, cover, horn adapter, and bolts. In my case, I will not be using the horn adapter and the bolts I will be using came from my local parts store. If you are using the horn, use what comes in the kit.

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Materials/Tools:
- Philips screwdriver
- Drill with ¼” drill bit
- 10mm wrench
- Flathead screwdriver (optional)

Step 1:
Pop the hood and remove all the screws shown in the below picture with a Philips screwdriver.

Step 2:
Turn the wheel inwards so it’s out of the way. Pry the inner lining of the wheel well out and away from the front bumper to get to the screw holding the bumper to the fender. Remove this screw on both the driver and passenger sides of the car using a Philips screwdriver.

Step 3:
Remove the two bolts under the front of the bumper with a 10mm wrench. The bumper can now be pulled off.

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Break-down of a car remodel

When first starting a project car , there are three main categories to split the remodel.

Exterior: Would have to do with any new body parts such as body kits, wings, fenders, etc. Also paint and any other repairs to the outside of the car.

Interior: All interior work , carpets, seats, stereo system upgrades, etc. The interior section will include all aspects of an interior remodel.

Performance: All engine work, suspension, etc.

Personally I would suggest to do all the performance work first, this is the dirties task and the most messy one. While pulling out an engine or doing some other upgrades having a brand new paint job to take care of and be careful with is time consuming and difficult. After doing all your major performance mods, the second step would be the interior of the car. Covering the interior once its done its pretty simple and taking care of it not a big deal. Finally once the car performs good and it has a nice interior the last piece of the puzzle would be a great paint job, remember people see first the paint and wheels so having a good paint job and nice wheels will definitely make your ride stand out.

Tools: 10mm Socket Wrench, Flat head screw driver

Remove the battery tray from the engine compartment prior to starting this installation.

Remore the mass air flow sensor (MAFS) from the stock air intake box and set it aside for further instructions.

Loosen the clamp at the throttle body and disconnect the air intake box from the resonator duct leading into the fender well. Pull the entire stock air intake box and duct from the engine compartment.

remove the entire front bumper by removing all bolts and plastic clips holding the bumper in place.

Once the stock air intake, air duct, batter and bumper has been removed from the engine compartment, proceed to remove the driver side wheel.

Locate the grounding wire on the bracket connected to the frame. This ground will be relocated in order to place the second vibra-mount in place.

The grounding wire is now being relocated to the frame of the tC (A). The ground wire is now firmly secured in place (B).

place the 2 ½” straight hose over the throttle body, use two clamps but only tighten the clamp on the throttle body.

Take one of the vibra-mounts in this kit and screw it into the existing bracket used for the stock air intake box.

Take the remaining vibra-mount and screw it into the bracket where the grounding wire was once located (A). Screw the vibra-mount into the bracket until it bottoms out (B).

Position the primary intake over the hose on the throttle body and carefully press it into the hose.

Once the intake side of the primary intake has been pressed into the throttle body hose continue to align the intake bracket to the primary vibra-mount. When the bracket has been aligned, use the fender washer and flange nut to secure the intake in place.

After the intake has been positioned for the best possible fit the stock breather hose and connect it to the ½” port on the intake.

Injen has designed a holding bracket for the vacuum switching valve (VSV). Simply take the VSV and press the stud into the pre-drilled hole on the bracket (A). Once the VSV has been aligned it will sit flush in the bracket(B).

Take the stock mass air flow sensor and press it into the dyno-tuned adapter made specifically for the tC. Use the stock screws to fasten the MAFS into the machined adapter. We recommend that you moisten the O-ring with a light oil or water in order to prevent damage to the O-ring prior to installing the sensor.

The MAFS is pressed into the adapter and sitting flush (A). Make sure that there are no air leaks in the sensor. The cold air intake can also be converted into a short ram as seen in this picture. Simply, press the air filter over the end of the primary intake (B).

Injen has supplied a 12” vinyl trim to be placed around the resonator opening. This will prevent any damage to the secondary cold air intake system.

The secondary intake system is inserted through the bumper. Close attention is placed on the resonator opening when going up and into the engine compartment(A). Once the intake has been fitted, the top end is butted up against the primary intake, now, align the bracket to the vibra-mount stud and use the fender washer and flange nut to secure them(B).

The primary and secondary intakes are joined together, using the 3” straight hose and fastened with the clamps once they have been aligned.

The filter is placed on the end of the secondary intake and fastened to secure the filter in place. Align the entire intake for proper fitting. Once proper clearance has been made through out the length of the intake, continue to tighten all nuts, bolts and clamps.
1. Upon completion of the installation, reconnect the negative battery terminal before you start the engine.

2. Align the entire intake system for the best possible fit. Once the intake has been properly fitted continue to tighten all nuts, bolts and clamps.

3. Periodically, recheck the alignment of the intake system and make sure there is proper clearance around and along the length of the intake. Failure to follow proper maintenance procedures may cause damage to the intake and will void the warranty.

4. Start the engine and listen carefully for any odd noises, rattles and/or air leaks prior to taking it for a test drive. If any problems arise go back and check the vacuum lines, hoses and clamps that maybe causing leaks or rattles and correct the problem.

5. Check the filter for excessive dirt build up. Congratulations! You have just completed the installation. Enjoy the added power, sound and performance of your new intake system.

Tools Needed:
-Electrician Tape
-Wire Strippers

Steps:

- After getting your new PlasmaGlow® neon license plate out of the casing, proceed to open the hatch (trunk) of the car.

-BUT, first always make sure you’ve unplugged your battery before performing electrical work on your car.

- There’s 2 large compartments that will give you access to the license plate lights (already on the car) that you will need to open first.

-Now first things first, lets run the wire through the slot for the license plate light, which can easily be popped off and placed back in.

- After opening it, go ahead and unplug the cord running to the light.

- You’ll then you proceed to strip the insulation from the wires and attach the red wire from the neon from to the black wire on that goes to the license plate light. The of course attach the black wire to the white wire that goes to the license plate light.

-Now is the part where that electrical tape comes in handy. You’ll want to protect the wires with the electrical tape so wrap them tight.

-Now, put the license plate light back in place by pulling it in from the inside, and then placing the spare wire into the compartment to conceal it, and close it up. The wire should be running out the license plate light’s area, and you can now put the screws in to attach it to the car.

-Congrats, the finished product should look like this.

-And now ladies and gentlemen, it’s time to let your glow show!

On Saturday October 17, the final night of Grudgefest was held at Sacramento Raceway in Sacramento, California. Grudgefest is an event where people can drag race their cars at the track, but instead of the normal ‘race yourself’ drag race where you’re fighting to get the best time, you can also line up against a buddy or competitor so as to see earn bragging rights (or money…).

It was the busiest I’ve ever seen it! This place was flooded with custom cars, trucks, and bikes.

A packed house!

Whereas most nights a person can expect to get 5 or 6 passes with their $50 admission, on this particular night most people only got 2.

People were lined up a long way to take their turn on the drag strip.

I went with my father-in-law Deryl, who has a customized 76 Nova. He’s been going to the raceway for more than a year now with that car. He started off in the low 13s after doing a motor swap and putting in a custom exhaust setup. And after each time, he tunes something else to get the car to perform even better. Now he’s in the 12.3 range consitently, and sometimes in the 12.2 range. He did 12.27 on one pass at Grudgefest.

Most recently He changed out his radiator to be a performance lightweight aluminum radiator, and also changed to an electric fan. These two mods were all about improving the efficiency of his engine, where the goal was for the engine to spend less of its resources on powering those two units so that it can spend more resources generating power.

He’s talked about possibly throwing a bottle of nitrous in there, but probably won’t. One key reason is that the bottle would probably give him an extra half second, which would qualify his car such a fast time that he would be required to put a roll bar in there, which he doesn’t particularly want to do. I don’t think he needs the bottle as it is – that Nova is lightning fast!

It’s was a great time, especially being out there with so many custom cars in one place. And unlike a car show where everyone’s cars are there just for show, the drag events let people really show what their cars can do.

Body kits are certainly designed to be bolted on to your vehicle.  That being said, most body kits are hand-made products.  The original designs were done by hand, the molds were made by hand, and the parts themselves are made by hand.  So you will not have the same installation experience with a hand-made body kit as you would a computer CAD-designed machine made part from Ford.  It takes some extra elbow grease sometimes to make the body kit bumpers fit perfectly flush with your hood, fenders, and trunk.

Every brand comes in a different color. But all body kits come unpainted either way, meaning you have to get them painted after your receive it. Most body kits come in either a white, black, or grey gelcoat though, depending on the brand. Vision Autodynamics for example makes all their body kits with a white gelcoat finish, while Extreme Dimensions is famous for the black Duraflex gelcoat that they put on body kits.

While the gelcoat finish on most body kits is a matte finish and somewhat imperfect, there are some brands that come with a gleaming, shiny, near-flawless gelcoat finish. An example is Bomex. Most Bomex body kits are higher in cost comparatively, but the reason is because you get a product that is very well finished.

We wouldn’t say it’s a huge risk, and many people do not use them. It’s just an extra precaution to avoid a disaster on the road. The latch on the hood interfaces with your factory latch receiver, but it’s not made by the car manufacturer so it’s not necessarily an OE latch. I personally would put the pins on just to be extra sure the hood never flys up while driving, but I’ve seen countless people not use pins and be just fine.