Materials/Tools:
- Philips screwdriver
- Drill with ¼” drill bit
- 10mm wrench
- Flathead screwdriver (optional)

Step 1:
Pop the hood and remove all the screws shown in the below picture with a Philips screwdriver.

Step 2:
Turn the wheel inwards so it’s out of the way. Pry the inner lining of the wheel well out and away from the front bumper to get to the screw holding the bumper to the fender. Remove this screw on both the driver and passenger sides of the car using a Philips screwdriver.

Step 3:
Remove the two bolts under the front of the bumper with a 10mm wrench. The bumper can now be pulled off.

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Break-down of a car remodel

When first starting a project car , there are three main categories to split the remodel.

Exterior: Would have to do with any new body parts such as body kits, wings, fenders, etc. Also paint and any other repairs to the outside of the car.

Interior: All interior work , carpets, seats, stereo system upgrades, etc. The interior section will include all aspects of an interior remodel.

Performance: All engine work, suspension, etc.

Personally I would suggest to do all the performance work first, this is the dirties task and the most messy one. While pulling out an engine or doing some other upgrades having a brand new paint job to take care of and be careful with is time consuming and difficult. After doing all your major performance mods, the second step would be the interior of the car. Covering the interior once its done its pretty simple and taking care of it not a big deal. Finally once the car performs good and it has a nice interior the last piece of the puzzle would be a great paint job, remember people see first the paint and wheels so having a good paint job and nice wheels will definitely make your ride stand out.

Tools: 10mm Socket Wrench, Flat head screw driver

Remove the battery tray from the engine compartment prior to starting this installation.

Remore the mass air flow sensor (MAFS) from the stock air intake box and set it aside for further instructions.

Loosen the clamp at the throttle body and disconnect the air intake box from the resonator duct leading into the fender well. Pull the entire stock air intake box and duct from the engine compartment.

remove the entire front bumper by removing all bolts and plastic clips holding the bumper in place.

Once the stock air intake, air duct, batter and bumper has been removed from the engine compartment, proceed to remove the driver side wheel.

Locate the grounding wire on the bracket connected to the frame. This ground will be relocated in order to place the second vibra-mount in place.

The grounding wire is now being relocated to the frame of the tC (A). The ground wire is now firmly secured in place (B).

place the 2 ½” straight hose over the throttle body, use two clamps but only tighten the clamp on the throttle body.

Take one of the vibra-mounts in this kit and screw it into the existing bracket used for the stock air intake box.

Take the remaining vibra-mount and screw it into the bracket where the grounding wire was once located (A). Screw the vibra-mount into the bracket until it bottoms out (B).

Position the primary intake over the hose on the throttle body and carefully press it into the hose.

Once the intake side of the primary intake has been pressed into the throttle body hose continue to align the intake bracket to the primary vibra-mount. When the bracket has been aligned, use the fender washer and flange nut to secure the intake in place.

After the intake has been positioned for the best possible fit the stock breather hose and connect it to the ½” port on the intake.

Injen has designed a holding bracket for the vacuum switching valve (VSV). Simply take the VSV and press the stud into the pre-drilled hole on the bracket (A). Once the VSV has been aligned it will sit flush in the bracket(B).

Take the stock mass air flow sensor and press it into the dyno-tuned adapter made specifically for the tC. Use the stock screws to fasten the MAFS into the machined adapter. We recommend that you moisten the O-ring with a light oil or water in order to prevent damage to the O-ring prior to installing the sensor.

The MAFS is pressed into the adapter and sitting flush (A). Make sure that there are no air leaks in the sensor. The cold air intake can also be converted into a short ram as seen in this picture. Simply, press the air filter over the end of the primary intake (B).

Injen has supplied a 12” vinyl trim to be placed around the resonator opening. This will prevent any damage to the secondary cold air intake system.

The secondary intake system is inserted through the bumper. Close attention is placed on the resonator opening when going up and into the engine compartment(A). Once the intake has been fitted, the top end is butted up against the primary intake, now, align the bracket to the vibra-mount stud and use the fender washer and flange nut to secure them(B).

The primary and secondary intakes are joined together, using the 3” straight hose and fastened with the clamps once they have been aligned.

The filter is placed on the end of the secondary intake and fastened to secure the filter in place. Align the entire intake for proper fitting. Once proper clearance has been made through out the length of the intake, continue to tighten all nuts, bolts and clamps.
1. Upon completion of the installation, reconnect the negative battery terminal before you start the engine.

2. Align the entire intake system for the best possible fit. Once the intake has been properly fitted continue to tighten all nuts, bolts and clamps.

3. Periodically, recheck the alignment of the intake system and make sure there is proper clearance around and along the length of the intake. Failure to follow proper maintenance procedures may cause damage to the intake and will void the warranty.

4. Start the engine and listen carefully for any odd noises, rattles and/or air leaks prior to taking it for a test drive. If any problems arise go back and check the vacuum lines, hoses and clamps that maybe causing leaks or rattles and correct the problem.

5. Check the filter for excessive dirt build up. Congratulations! You have just completed the installation. Enjoy the added power, sound and performance of your new intake system.

Tools Needed:
-Electrician Tape
-Wire Strippers

Steps:

- After getting your new PlasmaGlow® neon license plate out of the casing, proceed to open the hatch (trunk) of the car.

-BUT, first always make sure you’ve unplugged your battery before performing electrical work on your car.

- There’s 2 large compartments that will give you access to the license plate lights (already on the car) that you will need to open first.

-Now first things first, lets run the wire through the slot for the license plate light, which can easily be popped off and placed back in.

- After opening it, go ahead and unplug the cord running to the light.

- You’ll then you proceed to strip the insulation from the wires and attach the red wire from the neon from to the black wire on that goes to the license plate light. The of course attach the black wire to the white wire that goes to the license plate light.

-Now is the part where that electrical tape comes in handy. You’ll want to protect the wires with the electrical tape so wrap them tight.

-Now, put the license plate light back in place by pulling it in from the inside, and then placing the spare wire into the compartment to conceal it, and close it up. The wire should be running out the license plate light’s area, and you can now put the screws in to attach it to the car.

-Congrats, the finished product should look like this.

-And now ladies and gentlemen, it’s time to let your glow show!

On Saturday October 17, the final night of Grudgefest was held at Sacramento Raceway in Sacramento, California. Grudgefest is an event where people can drag race their cars at the track, but instead of the normal ‘race yourself’ drag race where you’re fighting to get the best time, you can also line up against a buddy or competitor so as to see earn bragging rights (or money…).

It was the busiest I’ve ever seen it! This place was flooded with custom cars, trucks, and bikes.

A packed house!

Whereas most nights a person can expect to get 5 or 6 passes with their $50 admission, on this particular night most people only got 2.

People were lined up a long way to take their turn on the drag strip.

I went with my father-in-law Deryl, who has a customized 76 Nova. He’s been going to the raceway for more than a year now with that car. He started off in the low 13s after doing a motor swap and putting in a custom exhaust setup. And after each time, he tunes something else to get the car to perform even better. Now he’s in the 12.3 range consitently, and sometimes in the 12.2 range. He did 12.27 on one pass at Grudgefest.

Most recently He changed out his radiator to be a performance lightweight aluminum radiator, and also changed to an electric fan. These two mods were all about improving the efficiency of his engine, where the goal was for the engine to spend less of its resources on powering those two units so that it can spend more resources generating power.

He’s talked about possibly throwing a bottle of nitrous in there, but probably won’t. One key reason is that the bottle would probably give him an extra half second, which would qualify his car such a fast time that he would be required to put a roll bar in there, which he doesn’t particularly want to do. I don’t think he needs the bottle as it is – that Nova is lightning fast!

It’s was a great time, especially being out there with so many custom cars in one place. And unlike a car show where everyone’s cars are there just for show, the drag events let people really show what their cars can do.

Body kits are certainly designed to be bolted on to your vehicle.  That being said, most body kits are hand-made products.  The original designs were done by hand, the molds were made by hand, and the parts themselves are made by hand.  So you will not have the same installation experience with a hand-made body kit as you would a computer CAD-designed machine made part from Ford.  It takes some extra elbow grease sometimes to make the body kit bumpers fit perfectly flush with your hood, fenders, and trunk.

Every brand comes in a different color. But all body kits come unpainted either way, meaning you have to get them painted after your receive it. Most body kits come in either a white, black, or grey gelcoat though, depending on the brand. Vision Autodynamics for example makes all their body kits with a white gelcoat finish, while Extreme Dimensions is famous for the black Duraflex gelcoat that they put on body kits.

While the gelcoat finish on most body kits is a matte finish and somewhat imperfect, there are some brands that come with a gleaming, shiny, near-flawless gelcoat finish. An example is Bomex. Most Bomex body kits are higher in cost comparatively, but the reason is because you get a product that is very well finished.

We wouldn’t say it’s a huge risk, and many people do not use them. It’s just an extra precaution to avoid a disaster on the road. The latch on the hood interfaces with your factory latch receiver, but it’s not made by the car manufacturer so it’s not necessarily an OE latch. I personally would put the pins on just to be extra sure the hood never flys up while driving, but I’ve seen countless people not use pins and be just fine.

You’re driving down the street when you hear it, a loud and rugged roar of an engine, and then you see it in your rearview, a beautiful pearlescent orange Mazda RX-7 pulling up next to you in the stoplight. You try to guess what he is running under the hood but you just can’t recognize the sound, it’s not a turbo because it doesn’t sound like it’s got some sort of forced induction but the engine yet sounds so mean and powerful. He looks at you and revs his engine, you say, “Why not my car can take him”. You get ready for the light to turn green and as it does you notice the RX-7 roar and lead the way already a car length away. As he finishes running the block and slows down for you to catch up you make the sign for him to pull over. You both pull over and you talk about how that was cool and you ask him if you can see what he has under the hood. You expect him to have some sort of highly modified Mazda rotary engine or maybe a swapped turbocharged RB26DETT, but what you find leaves you stupefied to say the least. The Mazda RX-7 that just beat you is running a GM LS1 V8, a DOMESTIC V8 engine!

This might not happen to every one of you but the truth is GM V8 engines are now making their way into the tuner scene, especially the LS series. GM LS engines have been very popular with Mazda RX-7 owners for years now. Some Nissan owners have started doing the switch too, just look at some of the Formula D cars.

But what about the fact that V8 engines are big, bulky, expensive, gas guzzlers, and heavy?

Well that might have been true for the V8 engines of the 1960’s up to in some cases the 1990’s but the fact is that today’s V8 are much more efficient than their older counterparts. Today’s V8s are made with many of the following materials and components:
* Cast aluminum (or in the case of trucks, cast iron) engine blocks with Siamese bores
* Forged steel crankshafts
* Forged steel (or in the case of the newer LS engines titanium)
* Forged aluminum pistons
* Aluminum heads with titanium or steel valves
* Composite intake manifolds
* Cast iron exhaust manifolds
* Sequential fuel injection
* Coil on plug ignition

As you can see V8s are pretty much made with some very high strength materials and are pretty more modern and efficient than most people think. In this article I’m going to describe in as much detail as possible the positive and negative effects that a V8, specifically a GM LS engine, can have on your car.

First of all many of you are probably saying, “Even if this is a good idea it’s probably so expensive that it’s something better reserved for sponsored teams rather than an average Joe like me”. Well it’s not so expensive as you might think, for example a brand new Honda K series engine costs easily over $4K if I’m not mistaken and makes 230HP at the flywheel right out of the crate while a brand new GM LS1 can cost no more than $3,400 or used from, if you’re lucky like me whole lives in an area with an enormous supply of Z28 Camaros, $290 in good conditions with over 400HP at the flywheel in a stock tune. It doesn’t sound that expensive now does it? Now the cost of a transmission for these engines can run from $800 to $3000 for a high performance version in either automatic, electronic overdrive, paddle shifted clutch less transmission (for those who like rally and autocross), manual, and manual with overdrive.

Something that many drifter and autocross competitors wouldn’t like of a traditional V8 would be the heavy weight concentrated at the nose which would cause lots of under steer, but LS engines are not your traditional V8s. LS engines because of their aluminum construction can be pretty lightweight at approximately 390lbs more or less depending on your configuration. I know it might sound heavy but think about the fact that this 390lb engine can easily produce 500 horses before you start upgrading basic stuff like the fuel, ignition, and intake system. Now depending on your application, LS engines can make great low end torque averaging at about 280ft/lb  and extreme high end horsepower reaching well over the 1,000HP mark and in the case of the now 3 year old LSX  over 3,400 Horsepower.

On the short run the price of installing a LS engine might sound a little pricey and I’m sure some of you are already thinking that it will be even pricier on the long run, but it really isn’t so. LS engines have been mass produced in large quantities since 1997 and have been used from small cars trucks to high performance cars/SUVs to large SUVs and in some cases even airplanes. This has cause the market to be saturated with a large number of high quality replacement and performance parts at really low prices. This makes it extremely quick, easy, and cheap for the average Joe to repair his LS conversion in case of a wear and tear.

If by now your thinking, “Wow I want to do that, but how” here is the solution. The market has started to fill the demand for conversion of LS engines into smaller tuner cars and like in the example of the RX-7s suppliers have started selling conversion kits and conversion engine mounts and cross members. Some of the suppliers of these kits are as follows:
* Boss Frog
* Hinson Supercars
* Improved Racing
* Monster Miata
* Samberg Rod and Custom
* V8 Roadster

These companies offer everything you need to convert your cars from a kitty to a tiger.

Hope this article helps all of you gearheads and racers with your next swap, now remember nothing is too crazy when “Crazy Joe” is involved.

First, pop the hood, and prop it up.

There are six screws holding the top of your factory grill securing it to the frame. Remove them. Then, slide the grill outwards away from your Ranger.

This is what your factory grill will look like. You will have to use a hacksaw to remove the top panel( you can skip this step if you have a polished steel top panel).

This is how your grill should look like now. The top panel should be detached from the rest of the grill.

You will have to drill holes in order to mount the lower brackets. Line up the lower bracket and determine where you will have to drill. Next, using a drill bit relatively close to the size of the provided bolts, drill straight down and through.

Mount the lower brackets using the holes you just drilled. There will be holes for the upper brackets, so drilling will not be necessary.

Line up the billet grill, there will be four holes (2 upper and 2 lower) line these holes up with the brackets. Using the provided bolts, bolt all four brackets to grill. Don’t forget to screw the top panel of your old grill back on.

This is what your grill will look like after installation. Enjoy!