Materials/Tools:
- Philips screwdriver
- Drill with ¼” drill bit
- 10mm wrench
- Flathead screwdriver (optional)

Step 1:
Pop the hood and remove all the screws shown in the below picture with a Philips screwdriver.

Step 2:
Turn the wheel inwards so it’s out of the way. Pry the inner lining of the wheel well out and away from the front bumper to get to the screw holding the bumper to the fender. Remove this screw on both the driver and passenger sides of the car using a Philips screwdriver.

Step 3:
Remove the two bolts under the front of the bumper with a 10mm wrench. The bumper can now be pulled off.

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Tools: 10mm Socket Wrench, Flat head screw driver

Remove the battery tray from the engine compartment prior to starting this installation.

Remore the mass air flow sensor (MAFS) from the stock air intake box and set it aside for further instructions.

Loosen the clamp at the throttle body and disconnect the air intake box from the resonator duct leading into the fender well. Pull the entire stock air intake box and duct from the engine compartment.

remove the entire front bumper by removing all bolts and plastic clips holding the bumper in place.

Once the stock air intake, air duct, batter and bumper has been removed from the engine compartment, proceed to remove the driver side wheel.

Locate the grounding wire on the bracket connected to the frame. This ground will be relocated in order to place the second vibra-mount in place.

The grounding wire is now being relocated to the frame of the tC (A). The ground wire is now firmly secured in place (B).

place the 2 ½” straight hose over the throttle body, use two clamps but only tighten the clamp on the throttle body.

Take one of the vibra-mounts in this kit and screw it into the existing bracket used for the stock air intake box.

Take the remaining vibra-mount and screw it into the bracket where the grounding wire was once located (A). Screw the vibra-mount into the bracket until it bottoms out (B).

Position the primary intake over the hose on the throttle body and carefully press it into the hose.

Once the intake side of the primary intake has been pressed into the throttle body hose continue to align the intake bracket to the primary vibra-mount. When the bracket has been aligned, use the fender washer and flange nut to secure the intake in place.

After the intake has been positioned for the best possible fit the stock breather hose and connect it to the ½” port on the intake.

Injen has designed a holding bracket for the vacuum switching valve (VSV). Simply take the VSV and press the stud into the pre-drilled hole on the bracket (A). Once the VSV has been aligned it will sit flush in the bracket(B).

Take the stock mass air flow sensor and press it into the dyno-tuned adapter made specifically for the tC. Use the stock screws to fasten the MAFS into the machined adapter. We recommend that you moisten the O-ring with a light oil or water in order to prevent damage to the O-ring prior to installing the sensor.

The MAFS is pressed into the adapter and sitting flush (A). Make sure that there are no air leaks in the sensor. The cold air intake can also be converted into a short ram as seen in this picture. Simply, press the air filter over the end of the primary intake (B).

Injen has supplied a 12” vinyl trim to be placed around the resonator opening. This will prevent any damage to the secondary cold air intake system.

The secondary intake system is inserted through the bumper. Close attention is placed on the resonator opening when going up and into the engine compartment(A). Once the intake has been fitted, the top end is butted up against the primary intake, now, align the bracket to the vibra-mount stud and use the fender washer and flange nut to secure them(B).

The primary and secondary intakes are joined together, using the 3” straight hose and fastened with the clamps once they have been aligned.

The filter is placed on the end of the secondary intake and fastened to secure the filter in place. Align the entire intake for proper fitting. Once proper clearance has been made through out the length of the intake, continue to tighten all nuts, bolts and clamps.
1. Upon completion of the installation, reconnect the negative battery terminal before you start the engine.

2. Align the entire intake system for the best possible fit. Once the intake has been properly fitted continue to tighten all nuts, bolts and clamps.

3. Periodically, recheck the alignment of the intake system and make sure there is proper clearance around and along the length of the intake. Failure to follow proper maintenance procedures may cause damage to the intake and will void the warranty.

4. Start the engine and listen carefully for any odd noises, rattles and/or air leaks prior to taking it for a test drive. If any problems arise go back and check the vacuum lines, hoses and clamps that maybe causing leaks or rattles and correct the problem.

5. Check the filter for excessive dirt build up. Congratulations! You have just completed the installation. Enjoy the added power, sound and performance of your new intake system.

Tools Needed:
-Electrician Tape
-Wire Strippers

Steps:

- After getting your new PlasmaGlow® neon license plate out of the casing, proceed to open the hatch (trunk) of the car.

-BUT, first always make sure you’ve unplugged your battery before performing electrical work on your car.

- There’s 2 large compartments that will give you access to the license plate lights (already on the car) that you will need to open first.

-Now first things first, lets run the wire through the slot for the license plate light, which can easily be popped off and placed back in.

- After opening it, go ahead and unplug the cord running to the light.

- You’ll then you proceed to strip the insulation from the wires and attach the red wire from the neon from to the black wire on that goes to the license plate light. The of course attach the black wire to the white wire that goes to the license plate light.

-Now is the part where that electrical tape comes in handy. You’ll want to protect the wires with the electrical tape so wrap them tight.

-Now, put the license plate light back in place by pulling it in from the inside, and then placing the spare wire into the compartment to conceal it, and close it up. The wire should be running out the license plate light’s area, and you can now put the screws in to attach it to the car.

-Congrats, the finished product should look like this.

-And now ladies and gentlemen, it’s time to let your glow show!

First, pop the hood, and prop it up.

There are six screws holding the top of your factory grill securing it to the frame. Remove them. Then, slide the grill outwards away from your Ranger.

This is what your factory grill will look like. You will have to use a hacksaw to remove the top panel( you can skip this step if you have a polished steel top panel).

This is how your grill should look like now. The top panel should be detached from the rest of the grill.

You will have to drill holes in order to mount the lower brackets. Line up the lower bracket and determine where you will have to drill. Next, using a drill bit relatively close to the size of the provided bolts, drill straight down and through.

Mount the lower brackets using the holes you just drilled. There will be holes for the upper brackets, so drilling will not be necessary.

Line up the billet grill, there will be four holes (2 upper and 2 lower) line these holes up with the brackets. Using the provided bolts, bolt all four brackets to grill. Don’t forget to screw the top panel of your old grill back on.

This is what your grill will look like after installation. Enjoy!

Most body kits consist of replacement front and rear bumpers and a pair of sideskirts.

Bumper Installation

First unfasten your factory bumper. For most cars, this will require removal of the headlights and tail lights. You will find the factory bumper bolts and clips located in these areas: under the headlights and tail lights, near the hood and trunk latches, inside the fender wells, and in many cases in hard-to-reach places likes on a flange deep on the underside of the bumper on a flange connecting to the fenders. Make sure to keep all the hardware, because it will need to be used to bolt the body kit bumpers back on.

After the bumper is off, then first ‘dry fit’ the body kit bumper. Do this just to be sure you got the right one, to be sure it looks like it’s going to fit ok, and also to mark with a pen all the mounting points on the bumper. This is done because most body kits do not come pre-drilled, meaning you have to drill your own holes in the body kit. With most body kits you are expected to mount the body kit bumpers to the same place the factory bumpers are mounted, so mark the bumper at all locations where a hole will need to be drilled in order to bolt it up to the factory mounting points.

Next drill the holes as marked. Then, using the bolts and clips from your factory bumper that you saved, bolt up the body kit bumpers using all the same mounting points as the factory bumpers. Voila, the body kit bumpers are on.

Sideskirts Installation

First do a ‘dry fit’ of the sideskirts, fitting them up to your car. Most sideskirts are made to fit over the top of your factory rocker panels. Most sideskirts have a ‘lip’ that goes beneath the doors of your car but on top of the rocker panel on the door jam. That is a mounting lip. Do the dry fit in order to ensure that you got the right product, to ensure the product fits appropriately, and to mark your planned mounting points.

Sideskirts should be mounted inside each fender well using pop rivets. They should also, when possible, be mounted in the door jam on the lip of the sideskirt for extra adherance (also using pop rivets). After you pop rivet both sideskirts on, you’re all done with the installation!

Tools:
Philip’s screw driver Needle nose pliers (optional)
Flathead screw driver Glass cleaner (optional)

Step one:
Remove the Philip’s screw from the plastic roof latch cover and remove the cover. Also remove the two rubber stoppers that hold the roof in place. Pry off the four factory push clips out of the rear trunk lining and lay the lining over into the trunk (may need to use a flathead screw driver or pliers to pry the clips off).

Step two:
Remove the four nuts that are holding each tail light in place with an 8 mm wrench from the inside of the trunk. Disconnect the tail light harness clip (a small flathead screw driver may be necessary). Hold the tail light in place while doing this so that it doesn’t fall out.

Step three:
Gently push the tail lights outwards from the inside of the trunk. Make sure the foam guard comes out with the tail light. It is not necessary to keep this foam guard as long as there is a new one included with the aftermarket tail lights.

Step four:
Remove the four bulbs from the tail light housing. Turn them approximately ninety degrees and pull straight back as to not crack the bulbs. Check all bulbs before installing them into the new housings to ensure they are not cracked or burnt out. Replace any bulbs if necessary.

Step five:
Replace the bulbs into the new tail light housings. The location of the bulbs may be slightly different in the new housings so be sure to note which bulb is used for signalling, reversing and braking.

Step six:
Once all the bulbs are securely in place, put the new tail light back onto the car and line up all the threads into the existing holes. Replace the 8 mm nuts and only tighten until they are snug. Over tightening will cause cracking and/or damage of the new tail light. Plug the harness clip back in.

Step seven:
Check all the lights to make sure they are functioning properly. Another person is necessary for this task.

Step seven:
Place the trunk lining back together and replace the factory push clips, the rubber stoppers and the roof latch cover and tighten the Philips screw.

Step eight:
Wipe off any fingerprints on the tail lights and the installation is complete.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED:
-Underdrive Pulley (of course)
-New Belt that fits (mine came free with the UD pulley)
-Ratchet/Sockets (with extentions)
-Air tools are recommended (can be done without)

Steps:
1. Loosen Bolts on Crank Pulley. Yeah, alot easier said than done.
Okay I first tried this without using air tools and I had trouble keeping the crank from moving. So I suggest leaving the belt on until you loosen the bolts on the crank pulley. The best way to do it without air tools is to have someone help you keep the belt from moving while you loosen the bolts on the crank pulley. There are 4 bolts that hold the crank pulley on and I suggest using WD40 to help loosen them up. Using an air impact wrench it is a tight squeeze but I was able to get bolts loose quickly and easily. Once the bolts are loose then continue to remove the belt and then the pulley.

2. Remove Old Belt.
This is pretty straight forward. I used the tensioner, grab the right socket and go counter-clockwise with it on the tensioner- this allows you to pull the belt right off.

3. Install New Crank Pulley.
Alright, put the new pulley on and make sure you get it straight. If you have a torque wrench, go ahead and torque the bolts up to 28 foot pounds.
If you are having trouble with the crank pulley moving, install the pulley and get the bolts tight as you can then install the belt and then finally go back and tighten up the bolts.

4. Install New Belt.
Do this just like you took off the old belt. Use the tensioner and go counter-clockwise and I had someone to help me put the belt on. Double check it and make sure it is all on straight just as it was. Start up the stang and inspect everything and then enjoy your extra 9HP!

I got the KYB Gas-a-Just model of shocks for my Trans Am because I don’t have the car lowered and I had heard good reviews. I just needed to replace my rear shocks.

My father-in-law helped me identify that I needed new shocks. He pushed down on the trunk really hard and let it go, and we watched how much car ‘bounced’ up and down. With a good set of shocks, the car would rebound upward once and that’s it. The day my father-in-law showed me, the car bounced up and down several times before coming to a stop. So I got the KYB’s and got his help installing them.

The trickiest part was simply finding the top mount for the rear shocks. On the 97 Trans Am, you have to get inside the hatch and lift up the upholstery at the top of the rear seat (including the foam) to access it.

Top mount of rear shock

The bottom mount is easy to see. Once you’ve located the mounts, it’s a simple screw-on procedure. I had always thought that maybe there was pressure on the shocks and that it would require great care to remove them or install them. But that’s not the case at all, as they’re full extended when installed and don’t exhibit pressure unless compressed. We literally just screwed these in and that was it.

Tightening bottom of new rear shock

Both new KYB shocks are in.

It helped to have my father-in-law with me, but wasn’t absolutely necessary. With his help, it really turned out to be a piece of cake to install these. It took 30 minutes, and that’s mainly because he was taking the time to teach me about it. I’ll probably be able to do it in 20 minutes next time.

Read this before you start:
These are fiberglass fenders. Anything made in fiberglass is going to have an issue somewhere. All parts are never the same for fitment. Some parts need a little more shaving off of fiberglass to allow bolts to fit right and to allow for adjustments later on. As stated on the site “The owner of the company offers a famous warranty on all Sarona products: if are unable to fit the product to your vehicle, he will personally fly out and install the product for you! It’s a wildly bold claim, and to date we have not once had to call him out on that promise. It’s obvious that Sarona is a company that makes a great product, and they know it.” Do not abuse this warranty. Fiberglass never fits the way you want it to. Best thing is have a professional install it but you can use this guide to do it yourself.

ANDYSAUTOSPORTS.COM AND I ARE NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGES OR PROBLEMS THAT MAY TURN UP FROM INSTALLING THE PARTS YOURSELF. THIS IS TO HELP YOU IF YOU WISH TO TAKE THE CHALLENGE.

Installation:
1. Check your parts for any damage to the fiberglass. Look at where all the holes are for bolting the fender to. This will help you figure out where to look for a bolt that is holding down your OEM fender. This guide is the same for each side other than the antenna.
2. First, use your pliers and pull all the tabs on the bottom of your side skirt. There are a total of 8 on the bottom. The picture shows where they will be; the picture already has them pulled out

3. Then on the front side of the side skirt, use a flat head screw driver to pop the tabs completely out. Now you can pull the side skirt off. All that is holding it now is a couple of white tabs and 1 big black tab. If some stay on the car, just remove them and reattach them to the skirts

4. With the skirt pulled off and set aside, jack up the car and remove the tire to make the removal and installation of the fender much easier.

5. Using your Phillips head screw driver, remove the 3 screws in the wheel well at the front on the bottom holding the wheel well covers to the bumper. Also use the screw driver to remove the other large looking tabs holding the wheel well covers in place(just unscrew it until the piece pulls out a bit on its own and then pull the rest with your hands). Remove the 2 sections wheel well covers from the car and set aside.

6. Open your hood and prop it open. Now using the 10mm socket and ratchet, remove the black painted bolts inside of the engine bay and set them aside.

7. Using the ratchet, remove the 2 bolts on the bottom of the fender where it was covered up by the side skirt. After the bolts are removed, use a flat head screw driver to pry the fender from the car. See picture for details

8. At the front of the car where you removed the 3 screws holding the wheel well cover to the bumper, unscrew the 3 nuts in the bumper. This is attached to a metal bracket. Remove the bracket and pull the bumper down and to the side to expose an extra bolt. Remove that bolt

9. Now here comes the tricky part. The final nut holding the fender is located near the door hinges as shown in the picture. You could try to use an open ended wrench but I found it more accessible with the door open and using the socket and ratchet with an extension from the inside of the car. You are not given much room to take it out but it worked. Be careful about not scuffing your door.

10. With the passenger side fender, the antenna is the final piece keeping the fender from leaving the car. To remove the antenna, unscrew the base of the whip of the antenna from the base. Then, using a very flat and sturdy screw driver, pop off the top of the black base by prying it upwards. You should be left with what’s in the picture.

11. Use the #20 torx screw to remove the 3 bolts you see in the picture. Then pull the entire piece up and use pliers to remove the orange antenna wire from the silver tube it is connected to. This might be difficult but eventually it will come apart, allowing you to finally remove the fender from the car.

Working Backwards:
1. Make sure all the holes are drilled open and the bracket that goes in the door jam is cut for the “J” notch to allow the bolt to go in. Take your time, do not rush anything.
2. Now that your fender has been removed, it’s all about working backwards. Put the antenna back together on the passenger side(make sure you screw it down with new sheet metal screws and nuts or however you wish to have it held), add the metal bracket you pulled out to the fiberglass fenders(which may need some shaving off of the bracket to fit), re-bolt everything together. Also remove your OEM rubber hood bumpers from the OEM fenders and add them to your fenders to keep the hood at a proper level.
MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT CLOSE YOUR DOOR TOO FAST, YOUR FITMENT COULD BE OFF AND YOU COULD CHIP YOUR FENDER AND SCRATCH YOUR DOOR IF IT’S NOT RIGHT. GO SLOW AND MAKE ADJUSTMENTS AS NEEDED
3. Once all the bolts are together, the door can shut fine, the hood can come down without rubbing the fenders, and everything looks good, you can reattach the side skirt. If you so choose to, you can keep the wheel well covers off of the car or you can put them back in. I personally kept the front side in so the fender vent can allow the tire heat to escape.
4. After everything is fitted the way you want, take them off and bring them to your local painter and get them looking even nicer with a smooth coat of paint!

Before:

After:

Please read through the instructions carefully before starting this project. Take the time to get all the materials together as well as all the safety equipment.

Note:
A tune specific for this intake is required when installing this kit. Failure to add a tune specific for the JLT intake may result in major engine damage. ***DO NOT INTALL KIT AND DRIVE WITHOUT A TUNE*** Tools Needed:
• 5/16″ Nut Driver
• 10mm Socket & Ratchet
• #20 Torx Driver
• Phillips Head Screwdriver

Installation:
1. Verify you have all required parts (JLT painted pipe with PCV fitting and billet MAF housing, 90 degree rubber elbow with clamps, air filter, JLT heat shield, rubber PCV hose, and 2 MAF screws)
2. Remove the stock intake from the engine bay. It is best to have a cool engine so that you do not accidentally burn yourself while doing the install.
3. The intake box is only held down with 1 bolt. Use the 10mm socket and ratchet to remove. Do not lose this bolt because it will be reused for the heat shield.

4.The PCV line that connects the intake to the passenger side valve cover is held on each end with a spring loaded tab. Just depress the green tab over and pull the tube off where it was connected. You should only remove the one end connected to the valve cover.

5. Remove the wiring harness from the MAF sensor. To do this, pull the red tab on the back and pull out the wiring harness from the MAF sensor. Remove the MAF sensor after you have assembled the new intake, so you do not lose it.

6. Next, using your 5/16 nut with ratchet or even just a screw driver, loosen up the clamp holding the intake tubing to the throttle body. Pull the tube off of the throttle body and pull out the entire intake assembly.

7. Grab your supplied heat shield and factory bolt from the air box. Install where the old air box was and bolt it down with the factory bolt. The new box should clear the brake lines on the bottom and on the master brake box. You may tighten the bolt all the way down now or you can leave it loose for now, so you can adjust and tighten it later.

8. Now it’s time to assemble the JLT intake. Do this BEFORE you install it into the engine bay.

9. As you look at the new tube, you will see one end has a billet flange with the letters “JLT” engraved into it. That end will connect to the air filter. Slip the new clamp and filter onto the billet flange and slightly tighten so that it can be adjusted later. Make sure to not cover the MAF sensor opening on the flange and that the clamps will be accessible later on to be tightened in place.

10. On the other end of the tube, slip on the other new clamp and 90 degree rubber elbow. It will be very tight but it makes for a good seal. Tighten the clamp but leave some slack in it to be adjusted later.

11. Attach the PCV rubber tube to the fitting on the bottom of the intake tube. You do not need to clamp this.

12. Using the #20 Torx driver bit, remove the 2 screws holding the MAF sensor to the stock intake. Reattach the stock screws to the stock intake because they will not be used on the new intake. Using the 2 new screws, attach the MAF sensor to its new spot on the JLT intake. Note: Make sure the wording on the outside of the sensor is not upside down. Check to make sure the word “flow” on the JLT CAI is going toward the throttle body.

13. With everything together, place the intake into the groove of the heat shield and attach the 90 degree elbow with the last clamp to the throttle body. This is tricky because the elbow is not used to being an oval and the clamp must be completely loosened up to allow the elbow to expand to the throttle body. Also make sure your clamp will be accessible to be tightened once you’ve completed this.

14. Once the elbow and clamp have been fitted on the throttle body, you may attach the PCV rubber tube to the valve cover, where it used to be attached.

15. Reattach the MAF wiring harness to the sensor and push the red tab back in to lock it

16. Once everything is together, adjust the intake so the filter is not touching the car and is only touching the shield. Tighten all 3 clamps, but do not over tighten them, they should just be snug.

17. Do not start the car yet. With your tuner, follow the instructions to load your new tune to the car. Starting the car before the tune is loaded could result in engine failure or damage.

18. Last step is to enjoy the JLT Cold Air Intake and drive safe.

Before

After