Car : 2007-2008 Honda Fit 1.5L
Header : Weapon R Street Header

Tools needed :
14 mm
12 mm
10 mm
Ratchet

Item showed up not long after delivery was confirmed.

Item still in package

Package opened to reveal header

Step 1 :
This step is optional but highly recommended.
While the engine is cooling, spray all bolts with some WD-40. It will eat through the rust and will make your job easier.

Step 2 :
Remove Heat Shield.
This shield is held in place by 3 bolts (10mm). They are easily accessible from the top.
Note that this shield will not be reinstalled with the WR header so it doesn’t matter if you break a bolt !

This shows where all the bolts are

Heat shield once removed

Step 3
Remove Header.
This step is very easy once you know how to reach each bolt. There are 2 bolts (14mm) on the top part of the header and 3 bolts (14mm) on the bottom.
The 2 top bolts are easily accessible from the top of the car.
The bottom bolt on the passenger side is accessible from the bottom of the car
The bottom bolt in the middle is accessible from the bottom of the car
The bottom bolt on the passenger side is accessible from the top of the car.
Since these bolts will be reused, it is important not to break them. We recommend heating them up using a blowtorch or some sort of heating device.
It is recommended not to completely unscrew the bolts right away. If they are removed right away, it will put excess stress on the 2 spring loaded bolts that connect your header to the downpipe.
Once you have loosened the five header bolts, it’s time to remove the 2 spring loaded bolts (14mm) that connect to the downpipe.

Once again, these bolts will be reused so be careful with them !!!

PS : You unscrew them from the spring side (as shown in picture)

One bolt off !

View from the top
As you can see, these bolts are pretty rusted so be careful

Step 4

It is now time to remove the O2 sensor.

From the top, you can locate a yellow wire connecting into your header, this is your O2 sensor. Follow the wire (it should be going to the driver side). You will see a black connector. Unplug it.

Your O2 sensor is now disconnected

You can now remove the remaining 5 header bolts. We recommend removing the lower three first.
Be aware that once all screws are removed, the gasket will fall. Be sure to catch it !!!

Here are some pictures ,

Stock header

Comparison of the two headers

No header in the motor

Clean view of the downpipe

WR Header with gasket

Step 5

Reconnect O2 sensor in new header.

Step 6
Remove bottom gasket from the old header. You will probably need to spray some WD-40.
Once it is removed, install it on the new header.

Step 7
Re-install new header.
The tricky part is placing the header and aligning the gasket (the one connected to the manifold). The easiest way to do this is to start from the top. First, place a bolt connecting the header to the gasket (this bolt will simply be used to keep the gasket and the header aligned). Now place the other bolt. Try to screw it in place (doesn’t need to be tight). Once those 2 bolts are placed, the header will stay in place and the gasket will be aligned. You can now screw the remaining 3 bottom bolts.
Once all bolts have been placed, tighten them to 33 lbs-ft using a torque wrench. If you do not own a torque wrench, simply tighten them until you feel resistance and then add half a turn.

It is now time to bolt the 2 downpipe spring loaded bolts. Once again, tighten these bolts until the spring touches the downpipe, then add 2 full turns.

You now have a new header installed !!!

WR header installed

Note : when you first start your engine after the install, some smoke may appear. Don’t worry, it is simply the grease from your hands along with the WD-40 that is burning. It should cease within a few minutes

By creating a custom fiberglass subwoofer enclosure, one can make their subwoofers fit into the style and design of the entire car.  Many enclosure designs, shapes, and sizes can be created; however, this guide will help anyone learn how to create a custom subwoofer enclosure.  The knowledge gained from this guide can easily be applied to any specific project, in order to create a custom fiberglass subwoofer enclosure.

Tools Needed:

• 100-400 grit sandpaper
• Nail gun/nails and hammer
• Staple gun
• Paint brush
• Handsaw/jigsaw

Materials Needed:

• Cloth Fiberglass and Resin kit
• Plywood or another type of wood
• 1/2 inch dowels
• Car paint or carpeting
• Fiberglass auto body filler

Once you have gathered  all the tools and materials, it’s time to start designing your custom subwoofer enclosure.  Start by choosing the direction you want the subwoofers pointing, where you want them placed in your vehicle, and a general design.  Then, create a rough sketch of your desired design.  Now, it’s time to think about the mathematics and begin building.

Subwoofer Enclosure Design

Begin by measuring out all the base area of where you will place your subwoofers.  Then, you must make sure you create a subwoofer enclosure big enough to house your subwoofers and produce quality sound.  Each 12″ subwoofer generally needs around 3 cubic feet of space; while 8 and 10 inch subwoofers should have 2 cubic feet of space to produce the best sound.

In order to measure and design an enclosure with the proper cubic feet, take the base measurements that you just measured and divide it by the number of subwoofers you will be placing in the enclosure.  Once you figure out how much space each subwoofer will have at the bast of the enclosure, take the length and width measurements and multiply them.

For example, someone may have a base with the dimensions three feet by two feet, which is six square feet.  If they will be placing two 12″ subwoofers in the enclosure, the base for each subwoofer will be three square feet. So, they will need to make the subwoofer enclosure one foot high, in order to make three cubic feet of space for each subwoofer.

Building a Custom Fiberglass Subwoofer Enclosure

After you have figured out the dimensions and finalizing the design, it’s time to start building the base structure of the custom subwoofer enclosure. Begin by cutting the base of the subwoofer enclosure out of a sheet of plywood with your handsaw or jigsaw.  Once you have cut the base out, place it off to the side and grab your 1/2 inch wooden dowels.  Cut four wooden dowels for each subwoofer to the necessary height that your subwoofer enclosure needs to be, using your handsaw or jigsaw.  Finally, cut perfect circles out of a sheet of plywood to fit under the rim of your subwoofer, so you have a solid wood base to place on-top of the wooden dowels, in order to support the subwoofer.  Subwoofers usually come with a punch-out template to use in order to perfectly trace and cut the best circle to fit your subwoofer.

Now it’s time to put everything you cut together, beginning with nailing each circle rim to four of the wooden dowels, evenly separating them around the rim, which will distribute the weight of the subwoofer evenly.  Finally, nail the other end of the of the dowels to the base board of the subwoofer enclosure in the spot you wish to place the subwoofer where you would like.  You now have the base structure built for your subwoofer enclosure.  Place this into the vehicle and get ready to fiberglass.

You now have to begin applying your fiberglass cloth, draping and stapling, or nailing, it from the wooden circle which will support your subwoofers to the edges of the base board, at the bottom of the structure.  Make sure every spot is covered with a layer of cloth, then begin applying the fiberglass resin onto the cloth with your paint brush, spreading an even layer on the cloth.  Repeat this, until you have several layers of cloth resin applied on the custom subwoofer enclosure, and let it dry.  You now are done building the structure and you simply have to do the finishing details.

Carpet or Paint a Custom Subwoofer Enclosure?

• Carpeting

One can either choose to carpet of paint a custom subwoofer enclosure.  Carpeting can be much easier and cheaper, but it may not look the best and it may not even match anything else you’ve done to the vehicle.  The alternative to carpeting is to sand and paint the enclosure.  Sanding and painting does take much longer than carpeting, but it will definitely look much nicer and match your vehicles overall design, if done properly.

• Painting

In order to paint a custom subwoofer enclosure, you have to begin by sanding the enclosure with 150 grit sandpaper, then eventually moving to 200, 250, 300, and even 400 grit sandpaper, in order to get the fiberglass resin smooth and to minimize imperfections in the exterior fiberglass structure of your custom subwoofer enclosure.  Make sure you are wearing a mask, since the dust created from fiberglass is horrible for your lungs!

If you end up sanding and having holes or pores appear in the fiberglass, you should use fiberglass auto body filler to make the entire exterior of the structure as smooth as possible, as any imperfection will show up after you paint, so make sure you fill in every hole, low spot, and imperfection!

Once the exterior is smooth, sanded with 300-400 grit sandpaper, and ready for paint, mask off all the other areas of your vehicle, so you don’t get over-spray all over the vehicle.  Make sure you are using a paint that is somewhat flexible and matches the exterior of your vehicle, so it can take the pressures created by the subwoofer and blend in perfectly with the overall design and color scheme of your vehicle.

Ending Steps

Once you’ve either carpeted or painted your subwoofer enclosure, it’s time to finally wire and mount your subwoofers into the box, and do any last minute detailing, including paint touch-ups, wet sanding, or cleaning.

You should now know the basic process to building a custom fiberglass subwoofer enclosure.  Use this basic guide in and customize it to the process you must take to create your custom subwoofer enclosure, which sounds and looks perfect in your vehicle.

5 Axis install guide:
Tools needed:
1.Safety glasses
2.Jack and jack stands (I used 2)
3.Flat tip screw driver
4.Phillips screw driver (P3)
5.Drill and drill bit (5/32)
6.Pliers (needle nose)
7.Common sense and patience
8. 3 2-3 friends to help you hold things

Extras:
I used some extra “L” brackets. In the original instructions they weren’t mentioned but I will explain as I go along.

When your deliver arrives:
Anyone can be quite excited when the Fedex truck pulls up on your driveway but don’t forget to inspect your kit. The box it comes in is very strong if you see any damages to the box, then open and inspect the contents. If the product is damage then refuse shipment and call your Andy’s Auto sport rep. Do not get upset, all matters will be resolved.

Storing/Prepping:
When I received my kit I unpacked it and let it rest on the floor. The reason being is to let the kit snap back into shape. Even though the kit is made of urethane any prolong deformations can be permanent.

Remember that no matter what happens or where you go, you must alwayd care a car emergency kit with you at all times. Never compromise safety for looks. Always carry an Emergency Car Kit with you for additional safety.

Do not let the primer or paint cure without support. The reason is if the paint cure and the front valance has a slight twist, when you straighten it you can crack the paint.

Before I took my kit to the body shop I wet sanded everything with 400 grit sand paper. I did this just to get some small nicks out and to give the primer a good key. Also when you sand make sure you go in one direction.

I told the painter to over spray on the inside. Some people just paint to the edge and call it a day. If the paint is going to chip, it will start at the edge.

Final installation:
Make sure the taping area is free of dirt, grease and wax. The dry fitting took me 2-3 hours. Final install should take half that. Make sure you take the time to dry fit and prepare.

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Installing a steering wheel is one of the three striking parts that can make your interior stand out (others being the seats and shifter knob). It’s one of the two parts people see as soon as you open your driver’s door (the other being the seat). This install will show you how to install the Hub adapter and wheel from Grant Products. Know for mostly their steering wheel line, Grant Products offer more parts than just steering wheels and their adapters, such as shift knobs, seatbelt styling pads, and seat covers. However, this article just covers the steering wheel and adapter.

The first thing to do is determine which steering wheel and adapter will work on your car. Andy’s Auto Sport can help you with that by selecting your car year, make, and model from their pull-down menus or by selecting the make and finding the picture of your car. See, this is easy from the start!

For this install, we are working on my 1990 Nissan 240SX Hatchback that I will be using in the Drift Nirvana series New Jersey round of the Xtreme Drift Circuit, so I needed Grant part number 3560. It comes with the adapter, cover, horn adapter, and bolts. In my case, I will not be using the horn adapter and the bolts I will be using came from my local parts store. If you are using the horn, use what comes in the kit.

Read More…

Materials/Tools:
- Philips screwdriver
- Drill with ¼” drill bit
- 10mm wrench
- Flathead screwdriver (optional)

Step 1:
Pop the hood and remove all the screws shown in the below picture with a Philips screwdriver.

Step 2:
Turn the wheel inwards so it’s out of the way. Pry the inner lining of the wheel well out and away from the front bumper to get to the screw holding the bumper to the fender. Remove this screw on both the driver and passenger sides of the car using a Philips screwdriver.

Step 3:
Remove the two bolts under the front of the bumper with a 10mm wrench. The bumper can now be pulled off.

Read More…

Tools: 10mm Socket Wrench, Flat head screw driver

Remove the battery tray from the engine compartment prior to starting this installation.

Remore the mass air flow sensor (MAFS) from the stock air intake box and set it aside for further instructions.

Loosen the clamp at the throttle body and disconnect the air intake box from the resonator duct leading into the fender well. Pull the entire stock air intake box and duct from the engine compartment.

remove the entire front bumper by removing all bolts and plastic clips holding the bumper in place.

Once the stock air intake, air duct, batter and bumper has been removed from the engine compartment, proceed to remove the driver side wheel.

Locate the grounding wire on the bracket connected to the frame. This ground will be relocated in order to place the second vibra-mount in place.

The grounding wire is now being relocated to the frame of the tC (A). The ground wire is now firmly secured in place (B).

place the 2 ½” straight hose over the throttle body, use two clamps but only tighten the clamp on the throttle body.

Take one of the vibra-mounts in this kit and screw it into the existing bracket used for the stock air intake box.

Take the remaining vibra-mount and screw it into the bracket where the grounding wire was once located (A). Screw the vibra-mount into the bracket until it bottoms out (B).

Position the primary intake over the hose on the throttle body and carefully press it into the hose.

Once the intake side of the primary intake has been pressed into the throttle body hose continue to align the intake bracket to the primary vibra-mount. When the bracket has been aligned, use the fender washer and flange nut to secure the intake in place.

After the intake has been positioned for the best possible fit the stock breather hose and connect it to the ½” port on the intake.

Injen has designed a holding bracket for the vacuum switching valve (VSV). Simply take the VSV and press the stud into the pre-drilled hole on the bracket (A). Once the VSV has been aligned it will sit flush in the bracket(B).

Take the stock mass air flow sensor and press it into the dyno-tuned adapter made specifically for the tC. Use the stock screws to fasten the MAFS into the machined adapter. We recommend that you moisten the O-ring with a light oil or water in order to prevent damage to the O-ring prior to installing the sensor.

The MAFS is pressed into the adapter and sitting flush (A). Make sure that there are no air leaks in the sensor. The cold air intake can also be converted into a short ram as seen in this picture. Simply, press the air filter over the end of the primary intake (B).

Injen has supplied a 12” vinyl trim to be placed around the resonator opening. This will prevent any damage to the secondary cold air intake system.

The secondary intake system is inserted through the bumper. Close attention is placed on the resonator opening when going up and into the engine compartment(A). Once the intake has been fitted, the top end is butted up against the primary intake, now, align the bracket to the vibra-mount stud and use the fender washer and flange nut to secure them(B).

The primary and secondary intakes are joined together, using the 3” straight hose and fastened with the clamps once they have been aligned.

The filter is placed on the end of the secondary intake and fastened to secure the filter in place. Align the entire intake for proper fitting. Once proper clearance has been made through out the length of the intake, continue to tighten all nuts, bolts and clamps.
1. Upon completion of the installation, reconnect the negative battery terminal before you start the engine.

2. Align the entire intake system for the best possible fit. Once the intake has been properly fitted continue to tighten all nuts, bolts and clamps.

3. Periodically, recheck the alignment of the intake system and make sure there is proper clearance around and along the length of the intake. Failure to follow proper maintenance procedures may cause damage to the intake and will void the warranty.

4. Start the engine and listen carefully for any odd noises, rattles and/or air leaks prior to taking it for a test drive. If any problems arise go back and check the vacuum lines, hoses and clamps that maybe causing leaks or rattles and correct the problem.

5. Check the filter for excessive dirt build up. Congratulations! You have just completed the installation. Enjoy the added power, sound and performance of your new intake system.

Tools Needed:
-Electrician Tape
-Wire Strippers

Steps:

- After getting your new PlasmaGlow® neon license plate out of the casing, proceed to open the hatch (trunk) of the car.

-BUT, first always make sure you’ve unplugged your battery before performing electrical work on your car.

- There’s 2 large compartments that will give you access to the license plate lights (already on the car) that you will need to open first.

-Now first things first, lets run the wire through the slot for the license plate light, which can easily be popped off and placed back in.

- After opening it, go ahead and unplug the cord running to the light.

- You’ll then you proceed to strip the insulation from the wires and attach the red wire from the neon from to the black wire on that goes to the license plate light. The of course attach the black wire to the white wire that goes to the license plate light.

-Now is the part where that electrical tape comes in handy. You’ll want to protect the wires with the electrical tape so wrap them tight.

-Now, put the license plate light back in place by pulling it in from the inside, and then placing the spare wire into the compartment to conceal it, and close it up. The wire should be running out the license plate light’s area, and you can now put the screws in to attach it to the car.

-Congrats, the finished product should look like this.

-And now ladies and gentlemen, it’s time to let your glow show!

First, pop the hood, and prop it up.

There are six screws holding the top of your factory grill securing it to the frame. Remove them. Then, slide the grill outwards away from your Ranger.

This is what your factory grill will look like. You will have to use a hacksaw to remove the top panel( you can skip this step if you have a polished steel top panel).

This is how your grill should look like now. The top panel should be detached from the rest of the grill.

You will have to drill holes in order to mount the lower brackets. Line up the lower bracket and determine where you will have to drill. Next, using a drill bit relatively close to the size of the provided bolts, drill straight down and through.

Mount the lower brackets using the holes you just drilled. There will be holes for the upper brackets, so drilling will not be necessary.

Line up the billet grill, there will be four holes (2 upper and 2 lower) line these holes up with the brackets. Using the provided bolts, bolt all four brackets to grill. Don’t forget to screw the top panel of your old grill back on.

This is what your grill will look like after installation. Enjoy!

Most body kits consist of replacement front and rear bumpers and a pair of sideskirts.

Bumper Installation

First unfasten your factory bumper. For most cars, this will require removal of the headlights and tail lights. You will find the factory bumper bolts and clips located in these areas: under the headlights and tail lights, near the hood and trunk latches, inside the fender wells, and in many cases in hard-to-reach places likes on a flange deep on the underside of the bumper on a flange connecting to the fenders. Make sure to keep all the hardware, because it will need to be used to bolt the body kit bumpers back on.

After the bumper is off, then first ‘dry fit’ the body kit bumper. Do this just to be sure you got the right one, to be sure it looks like it’s going to fit ok, and also to mark with a pen all the mounting points on the bumper. This is done because most body kits do not come pre-drilled, meaning you have to drill your own holes in the body kit. With most body kits you are expected to mount the body kit bumpers to the same place the factory bumpers are mounted, so mark the bumper at all locations where a hole will need to be drilled in order to bolt it up to the factory mounting points.

Next drill the holes as marked. Then, using the bolts and clips from your factory bumper that you saved, bolt up the body kit bumpers using all the same mounting points as the factory bumpers. Voila, the body kit bumpers are on.

Sideskirts Installation

First do a ‘dry fit’ of the sideskirts, fitting them up to your car. Most sideskirts are made to fit over the top of your factory rocker panels. Most sideskirts have a ‘lip’ that goes beneath the doors of your car but on top of the rocker panel on the door jam. That is a mounting lip. Do the dry fit in order to ensure that you got the right product, to ensure the product fits appropriately, and to mark your planned mounting points.

Sideskirts should be mounted inside each fender well using pop rivets. They should also, when possible, be mounted in the door jam on the lip of the sideskirt for extra adherance (also using pop rivets). After you pop rivet both sideskirts on, you’re all done with the installation!

Tools:
Philip’s screw driver Needle nose pliers (optional)
Flathead screw driver Glass cleaner (optional)

Step one:
Remove the Philip’s screw from the plastic roof latch cover and remove the cover. Also remove the two rubber stoppers that hold the roof in place. Pry off the four factory push clips out of the rear trunk lining and lay the lining over into the trunk (may need to use a flathead screw driver or pliers to pry the clips off).

Step two:
Remove the four nuts that are holding each tail light in place with an 8 mm wrench from the inside of the trunk. Disconnect the tail light harness clip (a small flathead screw driver may be necessary). Hold the tail light in place while doing this so that it doesn’t fall out.

Step three:
Gently push the tail lights outwards from the inside of the trunk. Make sure the foam guard comes out with the tail light. It is not necessary to keep this foam guard as long as there is a new one included with the aftermarket tail lights.

Step four:
Remove the four bulbs from the tail light housing. Turn them approximately ninety degrees and pull straight back as to not crack the bulbs. Check all bulbs before installing them into the new housings to ensure they are not cracked or burnt out. Replace any bulbs if necessary.

Step five:
Replace the bulbs into the new tail light housings. The location of the bulbs may be slightly different in the new housings so be sure to note which bulb is used for signalling, reversing and braking.

Step six:
Once all the bulbs are securely in place, put the new tail light back onto the car and line up all the threads into the existing holes. Replace the 8 mm nuts and only tighten until they are snug. Over tightening will cause cracking and/or damage of the new tail light. Plug the harness clip back in.

Step seven:
Check all the lights to make sure they are functioning properly. Another person is necessary for this task.

Step seven:
Place the trunk lining back together and replace the factory push clips, the rubber stoppers and the roof latch cover and tighten the Philips screw.

Step eight:
Wipe off any fingerprints on the tail lights and the installation is complete.