A popular modification to perform is the wide-body conversion, fender flares, or the “fender blister.” These can be done many ways, from fender rolling and pulling, bolting on widebody panels and adding fiberglass flares. These designs can be great looking, but as you will see not every flare or widebody will look great on every car.

I currently own a 1987 Nissan S12 200SX, which is also known as the Gazelle in other parts of the world. Its pretty beat up, with the left front fender, driver’s door, and hatch are black while the rest of the car is gold, and is stripped down to just the front seats and dashboard. You will also see the damaged right rear quarter panel and the reason for the initial idea for a “wide-body flare” combination.

It’s damaged pretty good, and I’m not the greatest body guy in the world, but I’ve worked with fiberglass before, just not on this scale. I gave it a shot, coming up with a design very similar to Kyle Mohan’s RX-8. The idea was to give air created behind the rear tire a place to escape to reduce drag and widen the fenders to fit the planned 15″X8″ 0 offset wheels for Rally Cross and Gymkhana racing duties.

You can also see the sideskirt I looked at using. It was designed for the S13 chassis and would need to be modified. Since I was going to need to do that, I decided to try and mold the flare into it as well. I then drew out where I needed to cut the flares down to fit like I wanted. (Taped a little crooked, though.) Just as a side note, the flares and skirts are made of fiberglass. At the very least, for the sake of your eyes and lungs, wear goggles and a face mask to keep the dust out of your vitals! Really, you should wear gloves and a long sleeve shirt, but it was hot that day, so I could deal with itchy skin.

Next up was making the rear side panels. To make them work, I would have to graft them into the flares. I used cardboard to create the mold and started cutting using a box cutter. If you go this route, watch where your hands are as getting cut by a sharp knife sucks! I know from experience, I still don’t have feeling on part of the tip of my left middle finger! I traced out an initial design, but kept working at it to try and get it to fit right.

After laying the whole part flat, I added some straight pieced of cardboard to the rear of the panel to keep it not only straight, but gradually lean it upward towards the rear to get the “exhaust port” of the panel out. I also took a portion of the flare I cut off and shaped it to fill in the gap on the rear portion of the flare and panel transition. After getting something I liked I applied my release agent, rather I sprayed some gasket glue on it and used tinfoil to cover it. Why? Fiberglass resin will not stick to it. You could also use packing tape, the resin will not stick to it as well.

I then start laying down the resin and fiberglass mat. Really, as it turns out, the better material would have been fleece, at least as a first layer. I thought that using the mat material would have allowed for better conformation of the mold. The fleece would have worked much better because the mat material really was too loose and would move as I tried to apply the resin for the next layer. Mat is better if you use it in strips instead of one large layer. I went against the strips to keep the piece as smooth as possible.
Normally, this is where the end result is shown. After the fiberglass resin dried, the next day I took the result to the car and placed it on the body. When looking at it, the design really didn’t match the look of the S12. Being a car from the ’80s, it’s a very square car. The mixing of the round flare to flat, but flaring out panel didn’t match the look of the entire car. Really, something closer to the look of the old silhouette cars (minus the GIGANTIC front splitter) or the S12s of the 80’s Japan Super Sport Sedan series would look much better.

So, unfortunately, you see that I am human and make errors. Then again, maybe you’re fortunate and you can learn from my mistake and see that, while it looks cool on that other guy’s car, it may not look cool on yours. Until next time, keep tryin’!

Tools needed :
14 mm
12 mm
10 mm
Ratchet

Item showed up not long after delivery was confirmed.

Item still in package

Package opened to reveal header

Step 1 :
This step is optional but highly recommended.
While the engine is cooling, spray all bolts with some WD-40. It will eat through the rust and will make your job easier.

Step 2 :
Remove Heat Shield.
This shield is held in place by 3 bolts (10mm). They are easily accessible from the top.
Note that this shield will not be reinstalled with the WR header so it doesn’t matter if you break a bolt !

This shows where all the bolts are

Heat shield once removed

Step 3
Remove Header.
This step is very easy once you know how to reach each bolt. There are 2 bolts (14mm) on the top part of the header and 3 bolts (14mm) on the bottom.
The 2 top bolts are easily accessible from the top of the car.
The bottom bolt on the passenger side is accessible from the bottom of the car
The bottom bolt in the middle is accessible from the bottom of the car
The bottom bolt on the passenger side is accessible from the top of the car.
Since these bolts will be reused, it is important not to break them. We recommend heating them up using a blowtorch or some sort of heating device.
It is recommended not to completely unscrew the bolts right away. If they are removed right away, it will put excess stress on the 2 spring loaded bolts that connect your header to the downpipe.
Once you have loosened the five header bolts, it’s time to remove the 2 spring loaded bolts (14mm) that connect to the downpipe.

Once again, these bolts will be reused so be careful with them !!!

PS : You unscrew them from the spring side (as shown in picture)

One bolt off !

View from the top
As you can see, these bolts are pretty rusted so be careful

Step 4

It is now time to remove the O2 sensor.

From the top, you can locate a yellow wire connecting into your header, this is your O2 sensor. Follow the wire (it should be going to the driver side). You will see a black connector. Unplug it.

Your O2 sensor is now disconnected

You can now remove the remaining 5 header bolts. We recommend removing the lower three first.
Be aware that once all screws are removed, the gasket will fall. Be sure to catch it !!!

Here are some pictures ,

Stock header

Comparison of the two headers

No header in the motor

Clean view of the downpipe

WR Header with gasket

Step 5

Reconnect O2 sensor in new header.

Step 6
Remove bottom gasket from the old header. You will probably need to spray some WD-40.
Once it is removed, install it on the new header.

Step 7
Re-install new header.
The tricky part is placing the header and aligning the gasket (the one connected to the manifold). The easiest way to do this is to start from the top. First, place a bolt connecting the header to the gasket (this bolt will simply be used to keep the gasket and the header aligned). Now place the other bolt. Try to screw it in place (doesn’t need to be tight). Once those 2 bolts are placed, the header will stay in place and the gasket will be aligned. You can now screw the remaining 3 bottom bolts.
Once all bolts have been placed, tighten them to 33 lbs-ft using a torque wrench. If you do not own a torque wrench, simply tighten them until you feel resistance and then add half a turn.

It is now time to bolt the 2 downpipe spring loaded bolts. Once again, tighten these bolts until the spring touches the downpipe, then add 2 full turns.

You now have a new header installed !!!

WR header installed

Note : when you first start your engine after the install, some smoke may appear. Don’t worry, it is simply the grease from your hands along with the WD-40 that is burning. It should cease within a few minutes

UC Berkeley Auto Parts Discounts

Purdue Auto Parts Discounts

Looks like some really good deal for Andy’s Auto Sport parts. Only problem: you have to be an alumni to get the discount! Is anyone here an alumni of UC Berkeley or Purdue?….

Tools Needed:

• 100-400 grit sandpaper
• Nail gun/nails and hammer
• Staple gun
• Paint brush
• Handsaw/jigsaw

Materials Needed:

• Cloth Fiberglass and Resin kit
• Plywood or another type of wood
• 1/2 inch dowels
• Car paint or carpeting
• Fiberglass auto body filler

Once you have gathered  all the tools and materials, it’s time to start designing your custom subwoofer enclosure.  Start by choosing the direction you want the subwoofers pointing, where you want them placed in your vehicle, and a general design.  Then, create a rough sketch of your desired design.  Now, it’s time to think about the mathematics and begin building.

Subwoofer Enclosure Design

Begin by measuring out all the base area of where you will place your subwoofers.  Then, you must make sure you create a subwoofer enclosure big enough to house your subwoofers and produce quality sound.  Each 12″ subwoofer generally needs around 3 cubic feet of space; while 8 and 10 inch subwoofers should have 2 cubic feet of space to produce the best sound.

In order to measure and design an enclosure with the proper cubic feet, take the base measurements that you just measured and divide it by the number of subwoofers you will be placing in the enclosure.  Once you figure out how much space each subwoofer will have at the bast of the enclosure, take the length and width measurements and multiply them.

For example, someone may have a base with the dimensions three feet by two feet, which is six square feet.  If they will be placing two 12″ subwoofers in the enclosure, the base for each subwoofer will be three square feet. So, they will need to make the subwoofer enclosure one foot high, in order to make three cubic feet of space for each subwoofer.

Building a Custom Fiberglass Subwoofer Enclosure

After you have figured out the dimensions and finalizing the design, it’s time to start building the base structure of the custom subwoofer enclosure. Begin by cutting the base of the subwoofer enclosure out of a sheet of plywood with your handsaw or jigsaw.  Once you have cut the base out, place it off to the side and grab your 1/2 inch wooden dowels.  Cut four wooden dowels for each subwoofer to the necessary height that your subwoofer enclosure needs to be, using your handsaw or jigsaw.  Finally, cut perfect circles out of a sheet of plywood to fit under the rim of your subwoofer, so you have a solid wood base to place on-top of the wooden dowels, in order to support the subwoofer.  Subwoofers usually come with a punch-out template to use in order to perfectly trace and cut the best circle to fit your subwoofer.

Now it’s time to put everything you cut together, beginning with nailing each circle rim to four of the wooden dowels, evenly separating them around the rim, which will distribute the weight of the subwoofer evenly.  Finally, nail the other end of the of the dowels to the base board of the subwoofer enclosure in the spot you wish to place the subwoofer where you would like.  You now have the base structure built for your subwoofer enclosure.  Place this into the vehicle and get ready to fiberglass.

You now have to begin applying your fiberglass cloth, draping and stapling, or nailing, it from the wooden circle which will support your subwoofers to the edges of the base board, at the bottom of the structure.  Make sure every spot is covered with a layer of cloth, then begin applying the fiberglass resin onto the cloth with your paint brush, spreading an even layer on the cloth.  Repeat this, until you have several layers of cloth resin applied on the custom subwoofer enclosure, and let it dry.  You now are done building the structure and you simply have to do the finishing details.

Carpet or Paint a Custom Subwoofer Enclosure?

• Carpeting

One can either choose to carpet of paint a custom subwoofer enclosure.  Carpeting can be much easier and cheaper, but it may not look the best and it may not even match anything else you’ve done to the vehicle.  The alternative to carpeting is to sand and paint the enclosure.  Sanding and painting does take much longer than carpeting, but it will definitely look much nicer and match your vehicles overall design, if done properly.

• Painting

In order to paint a custom subwoofer enclosure, you have to begin by sanding the enclosure with 150 grit sandpaper, then eventually moving to 200, 250, 300, and even 400 grit sandpaper, in order to get the fiberglass resin smooth and to minimize imperfections in the exterior fiberglass structure of your custom subwoofer enclosure.  Make sure you are wearing a mask, since the dust created from fiberglass is horrible for your lungs!

If you end up sanding and having holes or pores appear in the fiberglass, you should use fiberglass auto body filler to make the entire exterior of the structure as smooth as possible, as any imperfection will show up after you paint, so make sure you fill in every hole, low spot, and imperfection!

Once the exterior is smooth, sanded with 300-400 grit sandpaper, and ready for paint, mask off all the other areas of your vehicle, so you don’t get over-spray all over the vehicle.  Make sure you are using a paint that is somewhat flexible and matches the exterior of your vehicle, so it can take the pressures created by the subwoofer and blend in perfectly with the overall design and color scheme of your vehicle.

Ending Steps

Once you’ve either carpeted or painted your subwoofer enclosure, it’s time to finally wire and mount your subwoofers into the box, and do any last minute detailing, including paint touch-ups, wet sanding, or cleaning.

You should now know the basic process to building a custom fiberglass subwoofer enclosure.  Use this basic guide in and customize it to the process you must take to create your custom subwoofer enclosure, which sounds and looks perfect in your vehicle.

Extras:
I used some extra “L” brackets. In the original instructions they weren’t mentioned but I will explain as I go along.

When your deliver arrives:
Anyone can be quite excited when the Fedex truck pulls up on your driveway but don’t forget to inspect your kit. The box it comes in is very strong if you see any damages to the box, then open and inspect the contents. If the product is damage then refuse shipment and call your Andy’s Auto sport rep. Do not get upset, all matters will be resolved.

Storing/Prepping:
When I received my kit I unpacked it and let it rest on the floor. The reason being is to let the kit snap back into shape. Even though the kit is made of urethane any prolong deformations can be permanent.

Remember that no matter what happens or where you go, you must alwayd care a car emergency kit with you at all times. Never compromise safety for looks. Always carry an Emergency Car Kit with you for additional safety.

Do not let the primer or paint cure without support. The reason is if the paint cure and the front valance has a slight twist, when you straighten it you can crack the paint.

Before I took my kit to the body shop I wet sanded everything with 400 grit sand paper. I did this just to get some small nicks out and to give the primer a good key. Also when you sand make sure you go in one direction.

I told the painter to over spray on the inside. Some people just paint to the edge and call it a day. If the paint is going to chip, it will start at the edge.

Final installation:
Make sure the taping area is free of dirt, grease and wax. The dry fitting took me 2-3 hours. Final install should take half that. Make sure you take the time to dry fit and prepare.

Installing the rear valance:
Pictured below are the parts needed for this step. Notice on the “L” bracket one hole is bigger than the other. The bigger hole is for the clip that is pictured below.

The rear valance is pretty simple. Jack up the car (use the jack stands). I also removed the tires (this will be explained later). On the rear valance I cut the backing of the double stick tape. Don’t pull away the backing till you are ready to stick it on.

Now just before the muffler you will see 2 clips holding the tabs of your back bumper. Here’s what one looks like. I used a flat tip screw driver and needle noses pliers to remove this clip. Do not break the clips because we will reuse them.

1.Remove these clips. Now use the clips to attach the “L” bracket to the support.
2.Now on the rear valance you will see 2 screw holes with threads. Use the 2 screw and lock washers to screw the rear of the valance to the “L” brackets.
This is how the “L” bracket should look on the valance

Before we move on I want you to take notice of the flat edge.

1.This is your guide. This is where the double stick tape will stick to. Take the time to make sure the valance is straight!
2.Now peel back the tape from the center. Be careful once the exposed tape touches the bumper it’s pretty much stuck there. If you have a mishap, use a heating gun or hair dryer to warm up the adhesive. Always work from the center out and make sure you are straight.
3. The final step is to screw the valance in the wheel well. This is why I took my tires off. The instruction said to use the factory holes but I see didn’t any. I drilled a small hole and screwed in the valance. Don’t worry the valance have all wholes pre-drilled.

Installing the side skirts:
Parts needed for both sides:

The side skirts are full replacements. Just remove and save your old side skirts. Do not damage the clips as we are going to reuse them. Once you take off the skirts I want you to notice this

1.That piece needs to be cut off. If not the side skirt won’t fit flush.
2.Remove the backing of the double stick tape and carefully line up and stick the side skirt
3.Once everything is lined up, you can go ahead and screw the side skirt in both front and rear wheel wells using the factory holes.
4.Next open the door in the sill you will see 2 holes. Push the side skirt in so it can fit tighter. Now using a 5/32 drill bit, drill 2 holes. Use the long silver screw to screw down the side skirt to the car. Make sure you don’t over tighten the screws.

Now what wasn’t explained in the original instruction were the 2 holes on the bottom of the side skirt. These holes have thread and it leads me to believe this is extra support. It was by chance when I was under the car I noticed the holes on the side skirt lined up with the factory holes that held the original side skirt.
1.Toward the rear wheel, use the long “L” bracket. Use the factory clip to secure the top of the “L” bracket.
2.Now use a screw and lock washer to secure the “L” bracket to the side skirt.
3.For the front of the side skirt, there wasn’t an “L” bracket provided. I went to Home Depot and used a 1/8 inch thick sheet metal. I measured, cut and bent the sheet metal to the size I needed. I drilled 2 holes at either end. Now repeat steps 1&2.

Installing the front valance:
Parts needed:

The front is just as easy. Take notice at the outline. Again this straight edge will be your guide and will ensure your front valance will go on straight

Before we move on, did you notice the 2 holes in front valance? This is another step not explained in the original instructions. I believe this step is optional. If you wish to do this step you can. I saw where these holes lined up on my bumper. I marked them and drilled 2 holes. Now to actually screw the front valance, you need to remove the front bumper.

1.As we did with the rear bumper cut the backing of the double stick tape. Line up the valance and take your time. Working from the middle pull the backing away and press as you go. Remember work from the middle out
2.Once that is done screw the valance in the wheel well. Again in the original instruction I didn’t see any factory holes. I drilled a pilot hole and screw down the valance. Finally we are done!

The first thing to do is determine which steering wheel and adapter will work on your car. Andy’s Auto Sport can help you with that by selecting your car year, make, and model from their pull-down menus or by selecting the make and finding the picture of your car. See, this is easy from the start!

For this install, we are working on my 1990 Nissan 240SX Hatchback that I will be using in the Drift Nirvana series New Jersey round of the Xtreme Drift Circuit, so I needed Grant part number 3560. It comes with the adapter, cover, horn adapter, and bolts. In my case, I will not be using the horn adapter and the bolts I will be using came from my local parts store. If you are using the horn, use what comes in the kit.

After you have removed the horn fuse (or disconnected the battery on Air-Bag equipped vehicles), you have to get horn cover off. On some vehicles that have air-bags, such as this ’98 Ford Ranger, there are bolts to remove. These bolts hold the air-bag assembly onto the wheel. Take a small pick or small flat head screw driver and pop these off.

Some cars use a standard nut or bolt, but many cars are becoming tamper-proof (or dummy-proof, depending on how you look at it). Many OEMs use Torx or Secure-Torx bolts to prevent you from taking your car apart. It’s a form of “save-you-from-yourself-to-keep-you-from-suing-us.” And in the same fashion, here is my warning:

REMOVING THE AIR-BAG IS POTENTUALLY DANGEROUS, FATAL, ILLEGAL, OR ALL OF THE ABOVE. CONSULT YOUR LOCAL LAWS BEFORE DOING SO AND IF YOU CRASH, YOU’RE THE GUY WHO REMOVED DARNED THE THING. BLAME YOURSELF IF YOU GET HURT, DIE, OR GET A TICKET!

Ok, warning over. Fortunately, the ‘90 240SX is not equipped with an air-bag and simply has a horn cover. You pull on the top of the cover, just take the bottom of the cover and push up. Then unplug the horn wire. Easy, ain’t it?

From here you remove the steering wheel. First remove the nut in the center of the wheel. For my S13, it took a 19MM socket, small ½” extension, and ½” socket wrench. From here you have two options, well you could say three, but let me tell you why there are two. First option, you take the nut completely off and yank on the steering wheel until it hits you in the face. See, you should have listened to me and not done that. If you don’t have a steering wheel/pulley puller, you can still do the wiggle-and-yank method, but keep the nut three or four turns on the steering shaft.

The best method is to use this steering wheel/pulley puller. It’s easy to use and you probably won’t get a black eye or broken nose. Don’t ask me how I know.

First, take the chicken foot and long shank and screw it through the center.

Now, determine which adapter you need to use if you even need to. Look at the steering shaft and see how big the dimple is. Usually you use the large dimple.

If you look in your steering wheel, there will be two or three holes. The bolts provided by the steering wheel/pulley puller will be used in these threaded holes. Find the ones that fit and put them through the chicken foot. Tighten those three (or two) bolts and then hand-turn the center shank until the bolts pull against the foot.

Using a boxed-end wrench, or the boxed-end of a combination wrench, turn the center shank until the steering wheel comes off. See how much easier it was? Ok, the yanking method is pretty fast, but who’s got the broken nose? Alright then!

Since you have the steering wheel off, you might as well put something else back on. I used the 3560 adapter from Grant. The 3560 adapter is used on Classic, Challenger or Signature series wheels and the Vehicle Security System. In this case, I am using the Classic Crusin’ steering wheel which I chose for the classic, race car look the wheel gives me. While never pictured, there will be a foam pad in the center of the wheel where the horn would be.

Take the three bolts, either from the kit or the ones you provide like in my case, and put them through the wheel and cover. Then tighten them to the cast adapter. If you are installing the horn install the horn adapter, pull the wires through the wheel and adapter, then tighten the bolts to the adapter.

Take that assembly, line it up with the steering shaft, and push down as much as you can. Then take your 19MM nut and spin it on.

Tighten the nut with your socket, extension, and wrench till it’s tight, then torque to specifications.

Finally, make sure everything is tight and then install your horn button.

As you can see, installing a wheel is not a hard or even daunting task. When you use the proper, yet simple, hand tools, everything goes as smooth as installing an air filter. Yet, the effect is far more dramatic. You will get more attention when you choose the wheel you like than using anything OEM. And again:

REMOVING THE AIR-BAG IS POTENTUALLY DANGEROUS, FATAL, ILLEGAL, OR ALL OF THE ABOVE. CONSULT YOUR LOCAL LAWS BEFORE DOING SO AND IF YOU CRASH, YOU’RE THE GUY WHO REMOVED DARNED THE THING. BLAME YOURSELF IF YOU GET HURT, DIE, OR GET A TICKET!

Step 1:
Pop the hood and remove all the screws shown in the below picture with a Philips screwdriver.

Step 2:
Turn the wheel inwards so it’s out of the way. Pry the inner lining of the wheel well out and away from the front bumper to get to the screw holding the bumper to the fender. Remove this screw on both the driver and passenger sides of the car using a Philips screwdriver.

Step 3:
Remove the two bolts under the front of the bumper with a 10mm wrench. The bumper can now be pulled off.


Step 4:
Remove the Styrofoam.

Step 5:
Remove the single screw holding the corner lights in with a Philips screwdriver. Pull the corner light straight out and pull out the plug. A flat head screwdriver may be necessary in order to pinch the clip to remove the plug.

Step 6:
Line up the new aftermarket bumper and determine where you need to drill the holes to attach it to the fenders. Drill the holes using a ¼” drill bit. Holes will also need to be made to replace the screws under the hood (no picture available).

Step 7:
Mount the new bumper and replace the screw into the newly drilled holes.

Step 8:
Reverse step 5 to reinstall the corner lenses.

Step 9:
Note that with fibreglass bumpers, some modifying may be necessary in order for the kit to mount properly.

When first starting a project car , there are three main categories to split the remodel.

Exterior: Would have to do with any new body parts such as body kits, wings, fenders, etc. Also paint and any other repairs to the outside of the car.

Interior: All interior work , carpets, seats, stereo system upgrades, etc. The interior section will include all aspects of an interior remodel.

Performance: All engine work, suspension, etc.

Personally I would suggest to do all the performance work first, this is the dirties task and the most messy one. While pulling out an engine or doing some other upgrades having a brand new paint job to take care of and be careful with is time consuming and difficult. After doing all your major performance mods, the second step would be the interior of the car. Covering the interior once its done its pretty simple and taking care of it not a big deal. Finally once the car performs good and it has a nice interior the last piece of the puzzle would be a great paint job, remember people see first the paint and wheels so having a good paint job and nice wheels will definitely make your ride stand out.

Remove the battery tray from the engine compartment prior to starting this installation.

Remore the mass air flow sensor (MAFS) from the stock air intake box and set it aside for further instructions.

Loosen the clamp at the throttle body and disconnect the air intake box from the resonator duct leading into the fender well. Pull the entire stock air intake box and duct from the engine compartment.

remove the entire front bumper by removing all bolts and plastic clips holding the bumper in place.

Once the stock air intake, air duct, batter and bumper has been removed from the engine compartment, proceed to remove the driver side wheel.

Locate the grounding wire on the bracket connected to the frame. This ground will be relocated in order to place the second vibra-mount in place.

The grounding wire is now being relocated to the frame of the tC (A). The ground wire is now firmly secured in place (B).

place the 2 ½” straight hose over the throttle body, use two clamps but only tighten the clamp on the throttle body.

Take one of the vibra-mounts in this kit and screw it into the existing bracket used for the stock air intake box.

Take the remaining vibra-mount and screw it into the bracket where the grounding wire was once located (A). Screw the vibra-mount into the bracket until it bottoms out (B).

Position the primary intake over the hose on the throttle body and carefully press it into the hose.

Once the intake side of the primary intake has been pressed into the throttle body hose continue to align the intake bracket to the primary vibra-mount. When the bracket has been aligned, use the fender washer and flange nut to secure the intake in place.

After the intake has been positioned for the best possible fit the stock breather hose and connect it to the ½” port on the intake.

Injen has designed a holding bracket for the vacuum switching valve (VSV). Simply take the VSV and press the stud into the pre-drilled hole on the bracket (A). Once the VSV has been aligned it will sit flush in the bracket(B).

Take the stock mass air flow sensor and press it into the dyno-tuned adapter made specifically for the tC. Use the stock screws to fasten the MAFS into the machined adapter. We recommend that you moisten the O-ring with a light oil or water in order to prevent damage to the O-ring prior to installing the sensor.

The MAFS is pressed into the adapter and sitting flush (A). Make sure that there are no air leaks in the sensor. The cold air intake can also be converted into a short ram as seen in this picture. Simply, press the air filter over the end of the primary intake (B).

Injen has supplied a 12” vinyl trim to be placed around the resonator opening. This will prevent any damage to the secondary cold air intake system.

The secondary intake system is inserted through the bumper. Close attention is placed on the resonator opening when going up and into the engine compartment(A). Once the intake has been fitted, the top end is butted up against the primary intake, now, align the bracket to the vibra-mount stud and use the fender washer and flange nut to secure them(B).

The primary and secondary intakes are joined together, using the 3” straight hose and fastened with the clamps once they have been aligned.

The filter is placed on the end of the secondary intake and fastened to secure the filter in place. Align the entire intake for proper fitting. Once proper clearance has been made through out the length of the intake, continue to tighten all nuts, bolts and clamps.
1. Upon completion of the installation, reconnect the negative battery terminal before you start the engine.

2. Align the entire intake system for the best possible fit. Once the intake has been properly fitted continue to tighten all nuts, bolts and clamps.

3. Periodically, recheck the alignment of the intake system and make sure there is proper clearance around and along the length of the intake. Failure to follow proper maintenance procedures may cause damage to the intake and will void the warranty.

4. Start the engine and listen carefully for any odd noises, rattles and/or air leaks prior to taking it for a test drive. If any problems arise go back and check the vacuum lines, hoses and clamps that maybe causing leaks or rattles and correct the problem.

5. Check the filter for excessive dirt build up. Congratulations! You have just completed the installation. Enjoy the added power, sound and performance of your new intake system.

Steps:

- After getting your new PlasmaGlow® neon license plate out of the casing, proceed to open the hatch (trunk) of the car.

-BUT, first always make sure you’ve unplugged your battery before performing electrical work on your car.

- There’s 2 large compartments that will give you access to the license plate lights (already on the car) that you will need to open first.

-Now first things first, lets run the wire through the slot for the license plate light, which can easily be popped off and placed back in.

- After opening it, go ahead and unplug the cord running to the light.

- You’ll then you proceed to strip the insulation from the wires and attach the red wire from the neon from to the black wire on that goes to the license plate light. The of course attach the black wire to the white wire that goes to the license plate light.

-Now is the part where that electrical tape comes in handy. You’ll want to protect the wires with the electrical tape so wrap them tight.

-Now, put the license plate light back in place by pulling it in from the inside, and then placing the spare wire into the compartment to conceal it, and close it up. The wire should be running out the license plate light’s area, and you can now put the screws in to attach it to the car.

-Congrats, the finished product should look like this.

-And now ladies and gentlemen, it’s time to let your glow show!