WHAT YOU WILL NEED:
-Underdrive Pulley (of course)
-New Belt that fits (mine came free with the UD pulley)
-Ratchet/Sockets (with extentions)
-Air tools are recommended (can be done without)

Steps:
1. Loosen Bolts on Crank Pulley. Yeah, alot easier said than done.
Okay I first tried this without using air tools and I had trouble keeping the crank from moving. So I suggest leaving the belt on until you loosen the bolts on the crank pulley. The best way to do it without air tools is to have someone help you keep the belt from moving while you loosen the bolts on the crank pulley. There are 4 bolts that hold the crank pulley on and I suggest using WD40 to help loosen them up. Using an air impact wrench it is a tight squeeze but I was able to get bolts loose quickly and easily. Once the bolts are loose then continue to remove the belt and then the pulley.

2. Remove Old Belt.
This is pretty straight forward. I used the tensioner, grab the right socket and go counter-clockwise with it on the tensioner- this allows you to pull the belt right off.

3. Install New Crank Pulley.
Alright, put the new pulley on and make sure you get it straight. If you have a torque wrench, go ahead and torque the bolts up to 28 foot pounds.
If you are having trouble with the crank pulley moving, install the pulley and get the bolts tight as you can then install the belt and then finally go back and tighten up the bolts.

4. Install New Belt.
Do this just like you took off the old belt. Use the tensioner and go counter-clockwise and I had someone to help me put the belt on. Double check it and make sure it is all on straight just as it was. Start up the stang and inspect everything and then enjoy your extra 9HP!

I got the KYB Gas-a-Just model of shocks for my Trans Am because I don’t have the car lowered and I had heard good reviews. I just needed to replace my rear shocks.

My father-in-law helped me identify that I needed new shocks. He pushed down on the trunk really hard and let it go, and we watched how much car ‘bounced’ up and down. With a good set of shocks, the car would rebound upward once and that’s it. The day my father-in-law showed me, the car bounced up and down several times before coming to a stop. So I got the KYB’s and got his help installing them.

The trickiest part was simply finding the top mount for the rear shocks. On the 97 Trans Am, you have to get inside the hatch and lift up the upholstery at the top of the rear seat (including the foam) to access it.

Top mount of rear shock

The bottom mount is easy to see. Once you’ve located the mounts, it’s a simple screw-on procedure. I had always thought that maybe there was pressure on the shocks and that it would require great care to remove them or install them. But that’s not the case at all, as they’re full extended when installed and don’t exhibit pressure unless compressed. We literally just screwed these in and that was it.

Tightening bottom of new rear shock

Both new KYB shocks are in.

It helped to have my father-in-law with me, but wasn’t absolutely necessary. With his help, it really turned out to be a piece of cake to install these. It took 30 minutes, and that’s mainly because he was taking the time to teach me about it. I’ll probably be able to do it in 20 minutes next time.

Known by a few different names “The Ventura Show” has been the premier Porsche event weekend on the West Coast for over a decade. The 2009 Show returns on October 3-4th weekend to the beautiful Ventura County Fairgrounds Seaside Park, Ventura, CA 93001, alongside the Pacific Ocean, about 30 miles northwest of Los Angeles off Highway 101. It provides the opportunity for Enthusiasts, Car Clubs, Collectors, Manufacturers and Vendors to get together to socialize, display, sell, and swap and share the passion they have for Porsche and other German car makes.

Featured at the Show are many of America’s leading Porsche Performance Parts, Tuning Companies, Accessory, Literature and Memorabilia Vendors and OEM Parts Replacement Companies. There is also a Porsche Swap Meet area for selling used parts. Spectators and Dealers cars can also display cars for sale “For Sale.”

On Saturday there is a People Choice Car Show for car clubs and regularly driven street cars.
On Sunday there is and a Concours for exotics, special construction, collector and race cars.
Additional activities including celebrity appearances, a car parade through downtown Ventura, live musical entertainment with food and beverages are being added as well to make it a full weekend of activities and excitement.

Interested parties are also invited to contact the Ventura Show Organizers, World Class Motoring, if you have any special exhibits, club activities or sponsorship participation you would like to bring to the event. World Class Motoring phone 818-706-9999.

Read this before you start:
These are fiberglass fenders. Anything made in fiberglass is going to have an issue somewhere. All parts are never the same for fitment. Some parts need a little more shaving off of fiberglass to allow bolts to fit right and to allow for adjustments later on. As stated on the site “The owner of the company offers a famous warranty on all Sarona products: if are unable to fit the product to your vehicle, he will personally fly out and install the product for you! It’s a wildly bold claim, and to date we have not once had to call him out on that promise. It’s obvious that Sarona is a company that makes a great product, and they know it.” Do not abuse this warranty. Fiberglass never fits the way you want it to. Best thing is have a professional install it but you can use this guide to do it yourself.

ANDYSAUTOSPORTS.COM AND I ARE NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGES OR PROBLEMS THAT MAY TURN UP FROM INSTALLING THE PARTS YOURSELF. THIS IS TO HELP YOU IF YOU WISH TO TAKE THE CHALLENGE.

Installation:
1. Check your parts for any damage to the fiberglass. Look at where all the holes are for bolting the fender to. This will help you figure out where to look for a bolt that is holding down your OEM fender. This guide is the same for each side other than the antenna.
2. First, use your pliers and pull all the tabs on the bottom of your side skirt. There are a total of 8 on the bottom. The picture shows where they will be; the picture already has them pulled out

3. Then on the front side of the side skirt, use a flat head screw driver to pop the tabs completely out. Now you can pull the side skirt off. All that is holding it now is a couple of white tabs and 1 big black tab. If some stay on the car, just remove them and reattach them to the skirts

4. With the skirt pulled off and set aside, jack up the car and remove the tire to make the removal and installation of the fender much easier.

5. Using your Phillips head screw driver, remove the 3 screws in the wheel well at the front on the bottom holding the wheel well covers to the bumper. Also use the screw driver to remove the other large looking tabs holding the wheel well covers in place(just unscrew it until the piece pulls out a bit on its own and then pull the rest with your hands). Remove the 2 sections wheel well covers from the car and set aside.

6. Open your hood and prop it open. Now using the 10mm socket and ratchet, remove the black painted bolts inside of the engine bay and set them aside.

7. Using the ratchet, remove the 2 bolts on the bottom of the fender where it was covered up by the side skirt. After the bolts are removed, use a flat head screw driver to pry the fender from the car. See picture for details

8. At the front of the car where you removed the 3 screws holding the wheel well cover to the bumper, unscrew the 3 nuts in the bumper. This is attached to a metal bracket. Remove the bracket and pull the bumper down and to the side to expose an extra bolt. Remove that bolt

9. Now here comes the tricky part. The final nut holding the fender is located near the door hinges as shown in the picture. You could try to use an open ended wrench but I found it more accessible with the door open and using the socket and ratchet with an extension from the inside of the car. You are not given much room to take it out but it worked. Be careful about not scuffing your door.

10. With the passenger side fender, the antenna is the final piece keeping the fender from leaving the car. To remove the antenna, unscrew the base of the whip of the antenna from the base. Then, using a very flat and sturdy screw driver, pop off the top of the black base by prying it upwards. You should be left with what’s in the picture.

11. Use the #20 torx screw to remove the 3 bolts you see in the picture. Then pull the entire piece up and use pliers to remove the orange antenna wire from the silver tube it is connected to. This might be difficult but eventually it will come apart, allowing you to finally remove the fender from the car.

Working Backwards:
1. Make sure all the holes are drilled open and the bracket that goes in the door jam is cut for the “J” notch to allow the bolt to go in. Take your time, do not rush anything.
2. Now that your fender has been removed, it’s all about working backwards. Put the antenna back together on the passenger side(make sure you screw it down with new sheet metal screws and nuts or however you wish to have it held), add the metal bracket you pulled out to the fiberglass fenders(which may need some shaving off of the bracket to fit), re-bolt everything together. Also remove your OEM rubber hood bumpers from the OEM fenders and add them to your fenders to keep the hood at a proper level.
MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT CLOSE YOUR DOOR TOO FAST, YOUR FITMENT COULD BE OFF AND YOU COULD CHIP YOUR FENDER AND SCRATCH YOUR DOOR IF IT’S NOT RIGHT. GO SLOW AND MAKE ADJUSTMENTS AS NEEDED
3. Once all the bolts are together, the door can shut fine, the hood can come down without rubbing the fenders, and everything looks good, you can reattach the side skirt. If you so choose to, you can keep the wheel well covers off of the car or you can put them back in. I personally kept the front side in so the fender vent can allow the tire heat to escape.
4. After everything is fitted the way you want, take them off and bring them to your local painter and get them looking even nicer with a smooth coat of paint!

Before:

After:

Pulley Kits are what operate your car’s power steering, alternator and air conditioning unit. Belts attach to the rotating pulleys.

Some people like to buy pulley kits where the pulleys are larger than their factory pulleys. This effectively decreases the speed of the alternator, power steering, and air conditioning units, and in turn lower the energy used to power them. This reduction leaves more available energy to push horsepower.

Aftermarket pulley kits also look nice! They often come in a chrome finish, or otherwise in anodized or stainless steel finishes.

Please read through the instructions carefully before starting this project. Take the time to get all the materials together as well as all the safety equipment.

Note:
A tune specific for this intake is required when installing this kit. Failure to add a tune specific for the JLT intake may result in major engine damage. ***DO NOT INTALL KIT AND DRIVE WITHOUT A TUNE*** Tools Needed:
• 5/16″ Nut Driver
• 10mm Socket & Ratchet
• #20 Torx Driver
• Phillips Head Screwdriver

Installation:
1. Verify you have all required parts (JLT painted pipe with PCV fitting and billet MAF housing, 90 degree rubber elbow with clamps, air filter, JLT heat shield, rubber PCV hose, and 2 MAF screws)
2. Remove the stock intake from the engine bay. It is best to have a cool engine so that you do not accidentally burn yourself while doing the install.
3. The intake box is only held down with 1 bolt. Use the 10mm socket and ratchet to remove. Do not lose this bolt because it will be reused for the heat shield.

4.The PCV line that connects the intake to the passenger side valve cover is held on each end with a spring loaded tab. Just depress the green tab over and pull the tube off where it was connected. You should only remove the one end connected to the valve cover.

5. Remove the wiring harness from the MAF sensor. To do this, pull the red tab on the back and pull out the wiring harness from the MAF sensor. Remove the MAF sensor after you have assembled the new intake, so you do not lose it.

6. Next, using your 5/16 nut with ratchet or even just a screw driver, loosen up the clamp holding the intake tubing to the throttle body. Pull the tube off of the throttle body and pull out the entire intake assembly.

7. Grab your supplied heat shield and factory bolt from the air box. Install where the old air box was and bolt it down with the factory bolt. The new box should clear the brake lines on the bottom and on the master brake box. You may tighten the bolt all the way down now or you can leave it loose for now, so you can adjust and tighten it later.

8. Now it’s time to assemble the JLT intake. Do this BEFORE you install it into the engine bay.

9. As you look at the new tube, you will see one end has a billet flange with the letters “JLT” engraved into it. That end will connect to the air filter. Slip the new clamp and filter onto the billet flange and slightly tighten so that it can be adjusted later. Make sure to not cover the MAF sensor opening on the flange and that the clamps will be accessible later on to be tightened in place.

10. On the other end of the tube, slip on the other new clamp and 90 degree rubber elbow. It will be very tight but it makes for a good seal. Tighten the clamp but leave some slack in it to be adjusted later.

11. Attach the PCV rubber tube to the fitting on the bottom of the intake tube. You do not need to clamp this.

12. Using the #20 Torx driver bit, remove the 2 screws holding the MAF sensor to the stock intake. Reattach the stock screws to the stock intake because they will not be used on the new intake. Using the 2 new screws, attach the MAF sensor to its new spot on the JLT intake. Note: Make sure the wording on the outside of the sensor is not upside down. Check to make sure the word “flow” on the JLT CAI is going toward the throttle body.

13. With everything together, place the intake into the groove of the heat shield and attach the 90 degree elbow with the last clamp to the throttle body. This is tricky because the elbow is not used to being an oval and the clamp must be completely loosened up to allow the elbow to expand to the throttle body. Also make sure your clamp will be accessible to be tightened once you’ve completed this.

14. Once the elbow and clamp have been fitted on the throttle body, you may attach the PCV rubber tube to the valve cover, where it used to be attached.

15. Reattach the MAF wiring harness to the sensor and push the red tab back in to lock it

16. Once everything is together, adjust the intake so the filter is not touching the car and is only touching the shield. Tighten all 3 clamps, but do not over tighten them, they should just be snug.

17. Do not start the car yet. With your tuner, follow the instructions to load your new tune to the car. Starting the car before the tune is loaded could result in engine failure or damage.

18. Last step is to enjoy the JLT Cold Air Intake and drive safe.

Before

After